Did you double shim both sides under the pins because I only did one side and have been running the crap out of this thing.
When I first opened mine after hearing noises, I found the large shim to be distorted in the center, like a bowl shape so I only replaced it and added one smaller shim from the outside of the diff to it and it has been fine.

yeah, I did both sides, and I replaced the "bowl shaped" shims with new ones since they were worn out and I'm still hearing the noise. It's not bad yet, but I hear it. The diff casing is fine, I checked it when rebuilding yesterday, so I'm pretty sure that's not it. Gear mesh inside tranny is fine also, so what next?

Oh yeah, and I also replaced all the gears with the rebuild kit

Bummer, haven't figured out the best way to "test" the mesh inside when it's all assembled.
Could it be gettin too tight?
Or is it still loose needing even more shims?
Maybe the plastic diff gear/case is gettin distorted too.

AE, anyone have the killer technique for dialing in a diff.
I know it is an art in full sized differentals with dial indicators and similar shimming options.
Maybe assemble it clean and dry first and get a feel for play, shim accordingly then reassemble with lube of choice.

I don't get why so many people are having problems with the diff. I put extra grease in it during assembly and have not had a problem with it at all.

How many runs you have on it.
Mine was fine for several race and all day practices.
It just started barkin then skippin.
I did assemble it the first time with plenty of grease and when I opened it up after the noises it was still well lubed.
I reshimmed it with fresh shims and have been running the original gears for several more race and practice days so if you catch it when it starts, you should be able to save the gears.

what type/brand of lipos will fit the SC10 without any modification to chassis?:tire:

My Reedy 5000 hard case lipos fit fine, just can't switch up the position (forward or back)...stuck with forward position. I'll just use some lead to compensate, though.

Yeah when I rebuilt my diff, my sun gears were completely toast. Funny thing is, I order a rebuild kit, and I call AE, and order a shim kit. What happens is AE sends me a rebuild kit, on top of the one I just paid for, so now I have an extra.

RPM arms
 

Just so I understand right, the GT2 arms will work on our SC10's right? I am going to order the RPM arms today, but I just wanted to make sure.
Thx Jim

Yes.. they fit.. but the outer hinge pins are shorter, you can use the TC4 or GT2 hinge pins, or just cut the stock T4 pins down to the correct length.

YES! they come with the new center piece as well, but it is the same as the SC10 so you don't need to use it. Just swap the arms. They are much stronger.

Just racing against other corr trucks we haven't had a problem with the stock arms. If you plan to bash or practice with 1/8 scale truggies and buggies on the track I would recommend them.

I have only broken one arm on the track after a truggy landed on my truck in the air over our big triple.

Thanks guys, I am just doing a little bling thing, our first race is this weekend:D

A sun gear is a part of a planetary gear, SC10s have spider gears and out put gears. Which are you talking about?

No sir. The gear diff in the SC10 consists of sun and planet gears. I am referring to the sun gear, the flat one. Not the smaller planet gears that go on the crosspins.