If Rick and Kurt are still browsing this thread, they may be able to share information about Titan Vs 17.5 in the SCT Vehicles. I am sure they have many more hours of notes with regard to motor comparisons.

I finally finished building mine. The replacement steering bolts arrived today and I completed the build this evening. Unable to run it due to the Tekin RS install and not having a spare male Deans connector to solder on for the battery connection. I had a Mamba Max/5700 in the Slash, but decided to try a sensored set up with a Fantom Ion 17.5. Hopefully it's more manageable than the Slash.

One question about solder joints. I have never had problems soldering any of the connections in my crawlers, but I had a heck of a time getting the wires soldered to the posts on the Tekin ESC. How clean do these need to be, cuz mine all have a big blob of solder in between the wire and the post. Not pretty, but hopefully functional and not a current zapping issue.

Final build:
Tekin RS
Fantom Ion 17.5 - Geared 26/75
FT front hinge pin brace
FT aluminum shock caps
Gold springs front w/35 weight oil - stock piston
Silver springs rear with 30 weight oil - stock piston
Short wheelbase with 30 degree caster blocks
1 degree camber front and rear
0 degrees toe in
1 wheel set with stock tires and foams
1 wheel set with goosebumps and AKA medium foams
Core-RC 3500 lipos

Hope to FINALLY run it this weekend!

Just bought a SC10 kit today. Cant wait to put it together. Was wondering if the T4 CVDs and the T4 titanium turnbuckles and/or hinge pins will fit. I have some these parts laying around and may use them if I can.

Also, what other FTT4 parts will fit the SC10?

Chirag

Yes they do.

JDCrow - Thanks for the quick help. Another question, is the front shock tower the same as the T4? I think I read that it is different but wanted to confirm.

Thanks!

I actually swapped to the T4 trans in my SC10. Works a lot better since I went through 2 sets of spider gears.

No front tower is different. There should be a sheet in your kit that list the aftermarket parts available. You'll see that they are mostly T4 team parts.

Isn't that equal to a 9 turn brushed? Way too much motor. A 17.5 is perfect with the gearing AE suggests in the owners manual. 75/28. Like JD said we'll be running lots of combo's this sunday and we'll let everyone know what works best. Providing that stupid rain holds off!

I was running a 5700 and dumped it for a Fantom Ion 17.5. I haven't ran it with the 17.5 yet, but it has to be more manageable than the 4600 or the 5700. I figure I'll hold on to the MM/5700 for a possible 4wd B44 build. The Castles are great packages, but you wind up running them to about 30% of their performance in these trucks, really seems like a waste.

I also run the Fantom motors. Very pleased with the power. Turn it back up to 100% and you might want to take the timing up from 0 to 10. Gives it a tad more RPM.

I haven't had a chance to run it yet. I have to re-solder the esc due to a terrible soldering job :eek:

From reading the RS thread, I was going to start off with the motor set to zero timing advance and bump up the timing boost on the esc to about 30 or 40. Supposedly keeps the bottom end torque but advances the timing in the higher RPM range. We'll see how it works out. Glad to hear you are liking the Fantom. Are you running the 13.5 or 17.5?

17.5. I've run it all winter with no problems and no heat issues. I forgot that you were running the Tekin. I agree you should leave the timing at stock settings since you can advance it on the speed control.

Start at 15 or 20 and gradually increase until you find the desired setting. 40 may create a short lived motor

Thanks for the advice. I plan on picking up a temp gun eventually, but I'll start at 15 and use the touch method for now.

haha check this funny sc10 video out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5tROD3wNsY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJSM9NqJu7I