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I was gonna put my extra Traxxas VXl-3 (10 turn) in the SC10, but I can not, for the life of me, get the motor to work. I have the LVC turned off because for now I'm using a NiMh....I programmed the ESC....but when I squeeze the throttle it jerks forward a FRACTION of an inch then nothing.
So that's why Itried the MM 5700...just to see it run after I built it. WAAAYY too much, can barely keep a straight line and the ass end is everywhere. Maybe I need to invest in a 17.5 or see what my local track is saying. |
Originally Posted by dblhelx
(Post 5751782)
I was gonna put my extra Traxxas VXl-3 (10 turn) in the SC10, but I can not, for the life of me, get the motor to work. I have the LVC turned off because for now I'm using a NiMh....I programmed the ESC....but when I squeeze the throttle it jerks forward a FRACTION of an inch then nothing.
So that's why Itried the MM 5700...just to see it run after I built it. WAAAYY too much, can barely keep a straight line and the ass end is everywhere. Maybe I need to invest in a 17.5 or see what my local track is saying. |
I have heard their is also a problem with the programming/arming button. Traxxas will fix them for free if you send it in.
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
(Post 5629484)
Your rear arms are on upside down and on the wrong side.
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Originally Posted by rearviewmirror
(Post 5751767)
Even the 4600 is overkill, I'm looking for something even lower. Going to try a 17.5 and 21.5 next to make the truck more drivable.
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castle creations
being in this hobby for a long time and working in a hobby shop i see alot of novak stuff with problems they thremal easy.. cant haandle the heat lol.. not so easy to program and tune. castle has been making brushless stuff alot longer than most other brands. and are far more reliable. IMO. i have a box of old junk novaks. and not one old junk mamba.
you get frequent firmware updates that always keep you esc up to date with the latest tech.. novak and most of the other companies are all trying to compete with castle but still have a ways to go to be as good.. |
Im running a 13.5 and feel planted.:nod::nod:
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So I had the nasty diff clicking, and during a main last weekend, completely stripped out my diff (had to finish the race!) and I rebuilt it today with a rebuild kit, and added an extra shim on both sides. This is the solution I have been hearing about, has it NOT worked for anyone? I ran it for a bit in my living room and it seemed to be fine.
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Originally Posted by CaptainHowdyt13
(Post 5754425)
So I had the nasty diff clicking, and during a main last weekend, completely stripped out my diff (had to finish the race!) and I rebuilt it today with a rebuild kit, and added an extra shim on both sides. This is the solution I have been hearing about, has it NOT worked for anyone? I ran it for a bit in my living room and it seemed to be fine.
OK here is what I found out from our R&D department. The material that the diff gears was to be made up off was changed to beige type material we have in the kits and in the RTR's to come. And the different material cools differently, and sometimes when the gear cools after being molded it could have an extra hundred thousand of more space inside where the large spider gear are placed. So in some of the gears when you take of you hear a click. Not all of them will have this, but some do and the ones that do should get me your info. We have the shims that it takes to correct this and just need you to fax or mail me your address with the notation of SC10 Shims on it and I will send you out the shims to correct the spacing problem. |
Originally Posted by Crawler
(Post 5754439)
From Associated:
Oh yeah, and I couldn't find my black grease, nor did I have any diff fluid. So I used the red MIP lube that came with the MIP Super Diff I had in my RC18T. THink this will work ok? |
Originally Posted by CaptainHowdyt13
(Post 5754448)
I swear this shit better work.:flaming:
Oh yeah, and I couldn't find my black grease, nor did I have any diff fluid. So I used the red MIP lube that came with the MIP Super Diff I had in my RC18T. THink this will work ok? Not sure, but I would think it will be ok. I've heard of alot of other materials being used that are really out there. |
Originally Posted by Crawler
(Post 5754501)
Not sure, but I would think it will be ok. I've heard of alot of other materials being used that are really out there.
To be exact, it's this stuff...the thick red grease. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA280_.jpg |
That looks like a ball diff for an on-road car. I just used one from a T4. Worked good.
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Originally Posted by BuggyKing
(Post 5754057)
Im running a 13.5 and feel planted.:nod::nod:
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I threw the shims on the inside of the diff yesterday and ran out at the track for about 4 hours today, and about halfway through the session my diff started making the same noise. Not as bad, but still.....the same noise:flaming: So what do I do now, switch to the ball diff or switch back to the slash since it'll atleast run for an extended period of time???
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