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-   -   SC10 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/286773-sc10-thread.html)

LoonyRacing 04-27-2009 01:48 PM


Originally Posted by mcdonaldsracing (Post 5737923)
Yeah, the stock t4/sc10 arms suck.

As far as T4 arms on a T4:
I have been to 3 Winter Midwest Championships in Columbus, 1 WinterFest Championship in Indianapolis, 3 years of MARS (now MORL) and over 50 local club races around my area...
...I have replaced my front right arm once. I feel the arms are fine but that is my opinion.



Maybe for the SC10 the GT2 arms defiantly a great choice.

rapster402 04-27-2009 07:29 PM

does anyone know 100% that the GT2 front and rear arms are a direct replacement fit into the sc10 without altering suspension geometry or track??

Krio 04-27-2009 07:35 PM


Originally Posted by rapster402 (Post 5740406)
does anyone know 100% that the GT2 front and rear arms are a direct replacement fit into the sc10 without altering suspension geometry or track??

The gt2 front end doesn't alter the geometry at all. The rear was slightly different, but I can't remember if it was shock positions or something else.

KidAgain 04-27-2009 09:03 PM


Originally Posted by KidAgain (Post 5734273)
Went to OCRC saturday and saw 4-5 SC10's racing and yes they are squirly and the drivers were trying different set ups to no avail. Seems like the tires are a huge problem cause their was a Slash that was hooked up pretty good(mind you the driver was really good). Would siping the stock tires help like it does on real offroad trucks(cutting slits on the inside and outside lugs).

Another thing I noticed was that these things were slapping pretty hard on landings compared to the open wheel trucks landing with finess, maybe these things need alot more shock then we think?. It may still be to early in the tuning stages for these trucks yet, we may need more time to make these things perfect.

Some of the guys had weight added to the rears for traction and those trucks didn't look to good on the medium and large jumps, the ass end was dragging in mid air and were landing on one tire usually or both rears not all fours like the open wheel trucks and when it did land on all four they would smack the chassis.

All in all I am impressed with these trucks and am glad I got one we just need to get the balance and the tire situation right.

On another note the Tru Rc Wrap guy was there and let me tell you those wraps are very nice for our trucks looks like an expensive custom paint job.

By no means am I an expert been out of the scene for 22 years till about 2 weeks ago so these are just my uneducated observations.

Jake

What do you guys think about my observations?:p

BuggyKing 04-27-2009 09:12 PM

I think they handle great. Just need to work on suspension. I made a few ajustments and truck did well. For me foams, shock oils and locations made the difference. Also swapping to the ball diffs made a big improvements over the spider gearing. They come with only 2 degrees of anti-squat. I run 2 degrees more and made it much more stable. I also tested standing the front shock up and laying the rears down made it handle better too. I moved the battery all the way back in the chassis for maximum traction. Also for me more steering swap to the 30 castor blocks.;)
Here is my pics.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...1/100_2398.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...1/100_2399.jpg

KidAgain 04-27-2009 09:46 PM

BuggyKing I may have to bring mine over to you so you can set it up like yours once its built :blush:

Brownie 04-27-2009 10:01 PM

BuggyKing - what are you using for your battery strap?

BuggyKing 04-27-2009 10:09 PM

Kidagain,

Hi. Yes I can help you set it up. For a battery strap I made mine from a T4 and Kyosho RB5 and bolted it together. This allows me to run the battery to the very far back position.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...1/100_2397.jpg

Some other stuff I added too.
I run 30 castor blocks up front. And B44 rear hubs so I can run a bigger outer bearing. And titanium ballstuds. For tires up front I narrowed bomb ones and rears are AKA 1/8th scale foams.

webster420 04-27-2009 10:09 PM

well tonight we decided to test out out race system and make sure all our transponders work before our tracks first race. so we had 2 t4's and 1 sc10 and 2 slashes. after we were done we checked the times and my sc10 was only 1 second slower then the t4's fastest time. the slash was 5 seconds slower. im excited to see how racing goes with all the sc10's and slashes. it should be a good race. the best way to get the sc10 to hook up i have noticed is add weight to it. they are way light.

BuggyKing 04-27-2009 10:26 PM

If any of you guys are stripping out the moon gears in the diffs you can add an additional washer to each side of the moon gears to run a tighter gear mesh. I went through 2 sets of spider gears since the washer gets crushed and separates the gear mesh.

verticalpilot 04-27-2009 11:05 PM


Originally Posted by BuggyKing (Post 5741265)
If any of you guys are stripping out the moon gears in the diffs you can add an additional washer to each side of the moon gears to run a tighter gear mesh. I went through 2 sets of spider gears since the washer gets crushed and separates the gear mesh.

Would you mind sending me your setup sheet? What kind of track are you running in? Mine is loose wet out door, tight track. I need help w/ loose rear traction. Thanks.

BuggyKing 04-27-2009 11:18 PM

verticalpilot,

What is your current setup. Is it the stock setup?:confused:
Is it silver springs up front with 30 weight. And green in the rear with 30?


Matt

verticalpilot 04-27-2009 11:35 PM


Originally Posted by BuggyKing (Post 5741395)
verticalpilot,

What is your current setup. Is it the stock setup?:confused:
Is it silver springs up front with 30 weight. And green in the rear with 30?


Matt

I Pm'd you back.

Stock springs but I change the weight of oil. Front: 30, back 37.5 (what I had that was higher than 30) I have about .5 oz of weight in front. None in back. Batt all the way back, short wheel base.

Front:2I, 2c / 2 washer, mid 25 caster
Back: 3O, 2c / 3 washer, all other std.

Pretty much everything else stock. This is the setup I'll try next w/ few other changes, unless you see a better path. Thanks for any input.

BuggyKing 04-27-2009 11:57 PM

Also a short WB will make the truck rotate quicker through corners.

Lawso 04-28-2009 01:30 AM

Hey,
I have a basically stock SC10, this is what I've got:
VXL setup
23/75 gearing
Front shocks: 30
Back Shocks: 3/4 of it 30 and 1/4 of it 50 :lol:
Height: Middle setting(Should I make it lower?)
Camber: ?? How long should the front tie rods be?
Toe in: ?? What should I do?

When I go to turn, the front wheels just slide, and struggle to get grip. Any ideas what I should do to get more grip? I seem to be handling powerslide's really well.

Thanks:)


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