Not true.

Had the whole truck together, and THEN had to dremel it out. No biggie, took 2 seconds.

Really your telling me i built my truck wrong???????? Man i am no noob to
this hobby and own a few AE cars so why dont you come to my house take my truck apart and tell me its put together wrong.

X2 mine was also together and the center link was rubbing the front bulkhead.
Dremel and a barrel sander all fixed.

I bought a SC10 diff for my T4 that has a CC5700, after about 5 min the tranny was quacking like a duck:flaming: I was pretty pissed! I found this post and did mod you have above, and drove it for a good 45 min straight with no issues at all. I built mine with black grease and it works great. My buddy built his with Stealth diff lube and he really likes it as well. Not sure if that is better then the black grease or not, either way the mod did the trick and our T4's are running smoother then they ever have! :tire: So much better then the ball diff! :nod:

almost all of the local racers at the track have had problems with the steering.....

most people are like me and think that if a part isn't clearing something just take it apart, and put it back together again the same way expecting different results

some of you may know this is the definition of insanity :nod:

then they get the dremel out!!!!!

I personally thought to myself that there is no way they produced a kit that has a problem with clearance. So..... I went a different route and in my engineering wisdom decided that if the bottom of the steering rack is hitting the chassis and forcing it into the shock tower, maybe.... just maybe i need to tighten it more pulling it up and away from the shock tower thus solving the problem.....

This was my first AE car and not my first kit by any means. I race a Kyosho truggy and buggy and have tons of other cars that I would consider way inferior to this car. I have raced it 6 times now for a total of 18 heats (6 races x 2 rounds of 5 min quals and 6 races x 1 10 min mains = 2 hours of actual racing) as well as bashing in the yard.

So far I have broken 1 front arm only after a truggy landed on my truck in the air over our 35ft triple. Not bad.

There will always be people unhappy with kits, most of the time they realize later that they did in fact not know what they were doing and getting the car tracked up is a learning experience with each different car. Part of the problem is people are putting brushless setups in the cars that do not know what, or how to handle them or a car that fast.

If you take this car out in the street with a 10 turn brushless and go HOG wild with it, you will trash the cheap plastic trans, wheels, plastic arms etc....

Several of us have a mamba max 4600 with 81/24 and 5000 2s lipo and have no issues with motor, heat, trans..... etc......

I'm not really trying to be a dick but unless you got some defective parts...yes you built it wrong. There is nothing on the front end(or the whole kit) when built correctly that needs to be dremeled to work properly. I have built and rebuilt many many many t4/b4's of my own and others and know the parts very well and know lots of the common mistakes made. I just dont like it when there are people who have never built a kit have problems and say the kit/manufacturer suck when they built it wrong in the first place. Now the people that had missing/defective parts they can complain.

/\ /\ /\

Krash is spot on!!!:nod:

I like my truck. I dont care about the steering rack, that was an easy fix, and it accomplished the goal. The rack doesnt hit.

As far as the diff goes, I built it right, but it needed to be shimmed, just like a lot of other people's. These plastic parts I am certain have teeeeeeny tiny variances from the factory. All it takes is just a hair extra or less on something, and something else doesnt fit.

hey guys is are all the tranny gears plastic or metal???. i know the gear diff centre is metal but im wondering about the diff main gear, idler etc...?
i havent bought mine yet

It uses the same gears as a T4, they are all plastic except the diff gears like you mentioned, but they are very strong. I've had my t4 for years, and have only run it with a brushless 5700 with lipo, and the gears held up to everything I've thrown at it. You won't be disappointed. Just be sure to shim the diff as mentioned in this thread, and you'll be fine.

I ran the SC10 for the very first time today on my street after fijnishing the build.

Made a mistake of putting in a Mamba Max 5700...wow....almost uncontrollable!! Ass end was everywhere. lol

Have to tone it down a bit and dial it in. This truck is nice. Very.

Anyone know, is the ball diff from the T4 a dirrect fit? Is there anything you need to get besides the ball diff?

Thanks

No if you'll read back through this thread everything has been covered over and over and over....anyway you have to use the T4 tranny cases because the gear diff is wider and in my case(seems to be an argument) I had to use the lower chassis brace from the T4 also because the SC10 is made different also. I'm not sure the ball diff is that much of an advantage other than being more consistant and parts are easy to get. Both work well.

I guess it gets confusing considering you are saying you need the brace, and others say you don't. I guess I will just have to order both in case I need both.

you are all wrong , let the internet experts bs amongs themselves.
mine hit on suspencion deflection at the steering crank, flipped it it hit less , used a soldering iron to remove some plastic so it didnt hit . ae should of moved the a arms forward a 1/16 of an inch so it wouldnt hit .
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/DSC06835.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/DSC06834.jpg
everything went smooth up untill the arms hit , no biggy there is more than enough material there to make it work , and i could always make a metal one that wont even come close to hitting. to me it was a rush job on ae part to get the trucks out to the public.