looking at the crap that was sprayed around in the case from gear diff on the used sc10 I got in, I am wondering if putting in a ball diff even if this car is for my daughters usage would be better.

Anyone got a link to a good breakdown on how to properly build and seal the gear diff?

Lighter is not better?

I race a smaller track with good traction. Using Tekin RS Pro 10.5 22/81. The current track has been down for two months. At first calibers worked. Over time the track has tightened up. Slicers and City Blocks worked for a while. Now suburbs and rebars are the ticket. Even with tire and suspension changes the lap times have rose a few tenths.

I have resisted adding weight as the truck feels balanced. Front end push and rear slip can be compensated with throttle control. Recently a couple of drivers have been adding weight to their losi SCs. Their lap times have dropped. I haven't been able to get to the open practice days and will need to catch up with the weight tuning. I am running my heavier lipo 6000mah packs in the furthest forward position.

There are no big jumps; only a few timing doubles. There are a couple of kicker bumps single jumps entering a couple of corners. Looking for tuning tips on how much and were to locate weight.

Thanks for your suggestions in advance. Looking to keep the AE up front.

I run 4oz-(block) behind rear bulkhead (AE sells a block), 1/2oz RT side chassis, 3/4oz front bulkhead. the truck is pretty much on rails, turns on a dime & it's a lot more controllable & consistent over jumps & rhythm sections..

Thanks Joker for the quick post. The pictures help alot.
Do you run the battery all the way forward?
Are the rear shocks mounted in the lower outside holes?

+ YouTube Video

This is how I learned to build mine in my SC10 4x4 (about the same). If I can do it, so can you.

If you can get it right, you should never have to work on it. I have trouble smoking the thrust bearing in a single day with the ball diff. I'm going to try to put a different thrust bearing in it and see if I can get it to last longer.

In short, don't give up hope!

I like Jokers set up. Did you build those side dams or bought them somewhere?

The SC 10 has tons of steering already but it needs rear traction something fierce! But for me its all about balance. I have my ESC in front of the rear bulkhead right down the ceterline. I have 1/2 oz on the left side to ballance out the receiver and wiring with the xpdr on top of the servo. And then I have an 1.5 oz mounted on the rear bumper just behind the motor ( the flat part, not the bumper itself). Its glued and zip tied for security. I am still running the kit brace so my lipo is back as far as it will go but there is a foam in front of it. I run on an outdoor "fair" track but it does take a while to develope a groove.
My little scaling rig has me about 2 grams off left to right weight and 60ish grams of rear bias weight. Feels very balanced. Turning is equal both directions and it jumps flat as a pancake. I had to trim some air holes in the back and put some holes in the front window/ hood.

my battery is centered (move it forward or back as needed)... rear shocks middle hole on shock tower..

@ joker
i am running 13.5 with the sc10 what is a good setup to run with it on indoor clay wit med traction that is starting to blue groove? i would love to try yours out it run on rails.

New Hazard Wheels!
 

Wow, what a big difference in handling I've noticed with the hazard wheels. With the 3mm wider offset I gained an entire lap! I run the 8th scale aka red foams and HB Beams (pink=soopa soffs) at my local track. highly recommended.

Everyone looks for that perfect set-up that will make them wheel better &/or drop their lap times BUT everyone's driving style is different! Many people over power their cars & think they will be faster but that's not always true bcuz it really depends on the driver's finger, the track/jumps, etc... Im sure everyone has heard "Slow is fast"... in most cases, yes! but overall we must keep in mind that tires are 75% of a good set-up. Just having enough power/speed/traction to make all the jumps is more then enough!

I don't go by anyone's set-up.. I start with "box stock" set-up & then go from there to MY liking/driving style. Every new RC comes with a manual & with in the manual there's all the adjusting info u need to know what adjustment does in detail. My advice is only make one adjustment at a time & test it at the track ur running before making anymore so u don't throw the car totally out of whack..

I use the R/C Handbook

Hope this helps whomever, GL!!

Nailed it. I do exactly the same thing.
I know people who cant for the life of them run the "stock" set-up but also know some who cant drive with out them.
You have to find your own. But tire are definetly the biggest part.

When running 1/8th foams, do you have to cut them to make them fit, or are you able to put them in once piece?

1/8 scale foams fit perfectly. I have been using the JC ones for a while. Just bought a bag of 12 Ofna softs that was on sale for 7 bucks. They fit perfectly too. I believe the stock SC10 4X4 inners are from their Ready Spec buggys. They are almost rubbery instaed if foam but I like them too. Have had them in 3 sets of tires.

hi
my new sc10 body home made painted, the colt seaver replica
julien

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/PIKS0183.jpg

Body weight
 

Hey guys- Don't forget to put the body on before you check ride height. It's hard to believe how much it affects how the car sits. :eek: