I used a 150mm and it worked but I had to turn the speed control to do it.
I would go with the 180 or 200

If anyone is interested in running LOSI rear carriers i was looking thru my LOSI stuff and they make a 2deg carrier p/n 9808 for the XXX series. It might be a bit much but just throwing it out there.

Ok, that's what I was looking for, insight on what is actually needed. I would love to be able to spend $120 on a servo but I'd rather spend $35 on the servo and put the other $85 towards a new motor or battery.

I think I'll move my Hitec HS-625MG from my B4 to the SC10 and see how that works.

Here is a little table I made of the recommended servos:

I wouldn't spend money on anything other than KO

Why? Is this based on your personal opinion or do you have evidance that KO is a better value than any other brand? If so, please site your sources to back up your claim.

My experience is opposite to yours, I had a Hitec 645MG in my 4wd 1/10th buggy for the longest time, switched over to the AE DS1015, what a difference in the way the car feels! Then again, it was a buggy, not a truck. Also, I prefer a very sensitive steering then a sluggish feel... Just my $0.02 on servos...

I think their is too much hype about the need for high power high dollar servo's. Its like buying a high end computer for surfing the internet and sending e-mails. Don't get me wrong, some applications need high end servo's, install servo's that are too fast and have too much torque to the point that your having to dial in a bunch of expo and slow down the servo down through the radio programming.

What kind of sucks about chosing a servo is you can buy two servo's with identicle performance numbers but both have completely different feel too them. I think this is due to the servo's on center holding power and accuracy to returning to center.
The 645MG is a decent servo but it has crappy hold on center, making it a poor choice for steering.
Odd enough, the stock servo on the Slash does really well, its just stiffled by the crappy servo saver its connected to.

I just got my SC10 done and I can't get the rear wheels on.. they won't slide all the way the axle.. Did anyone else have to drill them out a little?:confused::confused:

YES they are a very tight fit.

Just use a body reamer and take a little off each side until they fit snug but come on and off easily.

They seem to loosen up the more you take them on and off.

On anther note- I broke my chassis the other night, is this happening to any off you? I saw that cuda had a brace, are there any other alternatives out there?

I havent broken chassis yet. Just front arms seem to be the norm. Also run the Losi 8/32 wheel nuts instead. They will last a bit longer.

Be careful to line them up perfectly with the pin cuz the plastic is really, really soft and will mess up really easy.
Also, when you tighten the axel nuts be really careful not to overtighen the nut while holding the wheel.
You'll turn the axel with the nutdriver and tear the slot for the pin in the wheel. Put a small screwdriver or allen wrench in the slot for the dogbone and tighten the nut holding the axel not the wheel.
The nut will bottom out on the axel, you'll know when it is tight.
Check the nuts often and again don't hold the wheel when tightening the nuts.
This will save your wheels.

You can slap a brace on the broken chassis and get back to racing within minutes!
Bummer that you broke it but you won't have to tear down your whole truck for a chassis replacement right away.
I'm still runnin mine with a brace bolted to the broken chassis.
I broke the top plate too so had to kick for one of those.
AE sent me a new chassis and probably would have given me a top brace too but I just bought the top brace added the F N Brace and was back on the track.

If you want one I get them out the same day if it's not too late.

[email protected] is where you can paypal if you'd like one.