You can fix that with a pair of duck bill nosed pliers.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/9557456-post6972.html

WELL I HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR A GEARING SITE BUT CANNOT FIND ONE AND WITH THE 5 TURN MOTOR I HAVE NEVER RUN THAT LOW OF A TURN AND LOWEST I RUN IN 8.5 TURNS AND I RUN BARCODES ON THE CLAY TRACKS I WAS JUST WONDERING IF THERE ARE ANY OTHER DIFFERENT TYPES OF TIRES I CAN USE FOR CLAY TRACKS :sneaky:

Thank you Craig. That cleared it all up. I'm using Hazards so the AE kit will work great. You rock.

I was doing this last night but was getting a little annoyed the FT comes with these damn springs all f*cked up like our 4x4. So I might just buy the spring kit and replace them alltogether. If that is still an issue, I'm going to hit Chris. :D

I can't hear you, can you yell a little louder please?

Have you checked to see what others are running at the track? have you looked at the manuals gear chart?
also try www.rcgearhead.com for a chart

well writing capital doesnt mean im yelling im just writing capital so sorry if you thought i was yelling at you :rolleyes:

+1.. I also run the aluminium hexs since the plastic AE ones are Junk. I had to keep shimming the plastic ones to keep the wheels tight.

http://d37nnnqwv9amwr.cloudfront.net...2056471450.gif

None of the fast guys at OCRC or WC ever run more than an 8.5. If I were you I'd motor down.

I hear good things about Hot Bodies HB Beams in pink compound work well indoors in SoCal.

ok i guess ill have to try those thanks also i just dont have the funds to buy another motor also i was just going to run about 50 epa on the throttle

Hex Problems
 

Sorry to add another thread concerning the hex adapters but I've experienced a problem.

I converted my SC10 FT to the RS axle hex parts - both front and rear. In the rear, I removed the pin, removed the blue anodized plate and removed the two thin washers. Referencing the RS instruction manual on-line, I then installed the RS parts - one thin washer, new roll pin and the thick hex adapter. I installed the wheels, made sure the drive train spun smoothly and took the truck out for practice.

I run indoor carpet with medium jumps. There were a lot of trucks on the track so I got into some "rubbing" but nothing serious. I was happy with the truck's handling and I pulled it off the track and went to the pits. The right rear wheel was flopping around. I examined the right rear and found that BOTH inner and outer bearings had disintegrated - the ball cages were destroyed, the balls were gone and the races were left in the axle carrier. The left side rear axle and wheel assembly was fine. This is a brand new FT kit with only 3 race nights on it. Nothing has been abused.

Has anyone else experienced bearing problems after converting a FT truck to RS hexes? I made sure I didn't overtighten the wheel nut and - as I said above - tested to make sure the axles spun smoothly.

Any idea on what caused the bearing failures? I know the RS uses dogbones and the FT uses CVA axles. Is the axle difference causing a problem? Would it be wise to convert to the RPM axle carriers that use a larger bearing?

Thanks for the help.

Run two of those small shims.

I have not had that problem. The problem was having with the stock Hex for the rear was that small lip would crush and allow the axle nut to hit the non-threaded part of the axle shaft making the wheel loose on the axle. I am now running the Jconcpets 12mm alum. rear hex.

I have toasted some front bearings from over tightening the axle nut's

I have the SC10RS...is JConcepts part #2091 what I need for the rear?

EDIT: Nevermind, it's #2081, right? They don't show up on JConcept's website, but I found them on another vendor's site.

I don't think it's the hexes. I just built a FTsc10 for a friend of mine and the 2nd time he ran it the same thing happened to him. He is NOT running hexes. I think it's a bad batch of bearings from ae.

The bearing is undersized for the application. This is why most users upgrade to the aluminum hubs - not for the bling, but because it is a durability upgrade with the larger outer bearing.

http://c0456141.cdn.cloudfiles.racks.../asc9864_1.jpg

I think your issue was due to running on carpet, and the higher loads due to the elevated grip level cooked the bearing that much faster.

That's the one I have.

So, I need to get an ESC and motor for my FT SC10. I am thinking one of two options and wanted to see what you guys think and if any of you have experience with a similar setup on your SC10.

Now, I've pretty much decided I am going to go with the MMP ESC. I have heard lotsss of good things about it, and you can't beat the price. However, I am not dead set on the motor yet. The owner at my LHS said if I am running a MMP ESC, then I should go with a CC 4600kv motor. So, that's one option. The other motor I am interested in is the LRP X-12 (7.5t). The reviews on it seem very good.

One other quick question... does anyone have any experience with the CC Sidewinder SCT ESC, or the Sidewinder SV2 ESC on a SC10? I see they have some decent reviews and are a great price, but I don't know what they'd be like on an SC10. I am not an expert racer or anything, but I do like my truck to be able to compete :) Thanks for the help!