That's what I'm currently running, but I have to tune it down! It likes to run like a light switch if you don't. I got torque limit set at 90 today, but will got to 70 and see how it runs. I'm at 1/4 throttle most of my track and 1/2 to over jump the triple section.

I was in that same boat a few years ago! Remember, a SCT is longer and has more weight than a stadium truck, so you can use more motor then a stadium truck. I like a 8.5 in mine.

Thanks
 

Thanks man for the info..lol I got so many people telling me this and that...lol and you know tekin motors aren't just something you buy a few of and see what works with the price

It's not the B3 diff. It's the GT diff. I think it's 2.65, where the B3 is 2.4. You can trade to the newer metric outdrives and outdrive bearings if you like, but I don't see the need.

The diff adjustment screw is right-handed. Turn it right for a tighter diff, left for a looser diff. Be careful, though. If you make the diff looser than the slipper, you get a melted diff gear for a prize. Standard setting is 1/8 turn left from all the way tight.

Don't try to judge your diff stiffness by if it turns the other wheel. Different motors have different power-off holding strength. Hold one wheel and give it a quarter throttle to see how tight the diff is set. Then drive it and adjust. You want to find the point just under where you lose traction in the turns.

Cool!! I'll check it out, i really want to try out a 4wd truck! :tire: looking forward to driving one.

mechanic help needed asap.............. hey guys how are yall doing out there?
im having binding problems and i can tfind it at all. fwhen i rotate my wheels in opposite directions slowly i can feel a heavy drag that is heavier than normal. i jsut rebuilt the diff and i like to use a lil more diff grease than normal and i kno that may have something to do with it but i really doubt it . i have checked all of the bearings in the hubs and they are all good and the crush tube is in there also. i had an experienced driver to take a look at it and it kinda confused him also. i went thru my tranny ro rebuild it and replace all of the gears inside so i know they are good also but i cant seem to find what is causing the bind can you guys please help me?:confused:

This is my first response to binding in the tranny area, check the motor plate screws, make sure they are not rubbing slipper...

Also may need to put some shims between inner slipper plate and tranny, to get some space between motor plate. Happened to me after replacing tranny case.

Alternative to c clip on front axel
 

Does anyone know of a good alternative to using the c clip on the front axle when using hexes?

I understand it's purpose, basically to keep you from over tightening the wheels, but I use a screw gun so I can get the wheels on and off quick for tire prep between heats. I use the clutch on the drill so it doesn't get too tight, but it's not 100% consistent.

The other problem is on the axle when trying to change the bearings. The grove gets misshaped from the c clip making it very hard to get the inner bearing off and then back on without damaging the bearing.

I'm thining of just drilling out the notch in the knuckle and finding a or making a crush tube that fits in there.

I really dont like the hex setup. I bought my nephew an rs for xmas and been racing weekly and his truck just east bearings. My ft truck doesnt have this issue. Gtanted hes a novice driver and cradhes alot but im wondering if the hex setup puts way more strain on the bearings. I converted the front back to standard wheel setup and am gonna change the rears to .5* hubs and see what happens

I run this setup. http://prolineracing.com/performance...t-inboard-hub/
No c-clip.

+1 on the proline setup

I need to be able to switch tires out with the sc10 4x4 so the hubs are a must for me.

I think i'll try the proline kit. Looks like the holders just have a sold ring that sits between the bearings instead of open space an a 1mm thick clip.

I think the Avid ceramics will hold up fine, may go with the Al hubs with the bigger bearing if I have issues with those on the rear.

...and to think, everyone poo poo'd the ProLine setup when the RS parts came out. Now that the ProLine is all but dead, lots of folks're going BACK to PL. Go figure.

I don't understand the issue. I use a screw gun with a clutch also and have no problems with my front axles or the c-clips that hold them on. Please explain the issue you are seeing