I run a Factory Team SC10 which I just finished building with the Tekin Redline Sensored 10.5T and RS Combo. I also bought the Hotwire interface and tune my ESC settings. First off, Im totally happy with the Tekin motor and esc. My car has more power that I will ever need for a large outdoor track. Most of the time I am running at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. On long straights I can pull full throttle for a few seconds.

The Hotwire interface is truly full control over your esc, down to RPM settings for bost, braking profiles, ect... Yeah, I've worked with other esc's where you have to press buttons and listen for beeps. Nothing beats pluging into your laptop or netbook. So Tekin has the market cornered on that.

Finally, 10.5T vs 8.5T. I'll bet an 8.5T (while Ive never driven one) would be alot of fun on an outdoor track. But if you intend to race, realize that 8.5T is a mod class. I'll wager that more people race 2wd trucks in 10.5T class than 8.5T at your local track. ;)

I've used BOTH the proline Hex nuts and the Jconcepts Hex nuts. Proline makes the front end conversion kit that includes hubs, bearings, axles and hex adapters. I've used that kit on both my Losi and SC10 and its solid. However, I like the JConcepts Hex adapters themselves better than the Proline ones, because the proline ones use a really tiny locking screw with a really tiny allen wrench diameter. Over tighten it, and your screwed. It will strip EASILY. Mine did on my SC10 I just built. I was using the Proline Hex adapters on the rear, and (god forbid) I used LockTite! When began to break apart the rear by removing the hex adapter I couldnt get it off. The entire thing stripped. I couldnt yank it off with a wrench either. I had to go out and buy all new Rear Hubs, CVA assembly, bearings and Hex adapter. This time I went with JConcepts. JConcepts uses a bigger screw in theirs, with a larger allen wrench. Its much less likely to strip.

If you go proline, beware, dont over tighten. They strip easily. And if its on your car for a great length of time, I'd worry it might not come back off if it freezes up. Cause they strip like M#$f@kers.:flaming:

So here are some pics of my SC10FT.

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...0/DSCN1323.jpg

Body on nothing special.

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...0/DSCN1324.jpg

Carbon chassis braces that I made. The first SC10 that I had was cobled together from an old T4 that I had kicking around, and a Craigslist SC10 parts truck. The chassis I got from Craigslist was cracked in the front pretty bad. I couldn't find an RPM bumper locally, so I built these carbon braces. When I realized that the cobled together truck was gonna cost the same as a new truck to make what I wanted it to be, I sold it (I fixed the chassis with carbon fiber and JB weld). I figured my new truck deserved the braces so there they are.

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...0/DSCN1327.jpg

I run thin sticky back foam in the bottom of my battery tray, that coupled with the slightly taller than normal shorty pack I run, I had to run the battery hold down strap on top of the shock tower. To help keep the battery in I made this carbon brace. You can also see the fan plugged into the 3" servo extension.

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...0/DSCN1328.jpg

Novak 25mm fan blowing on the solder posts of my RS Pro. I run a 6.5 so it heats up the esc a bit. The temp delta with the fan is about 30 degrees F!

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...0/DSCN1329.jpg

B44 rear hubs with a lower set of mounting holes for the ballstud. This simulates the geometry of the alloy hubs, with C towers. The placement of the lower holes required the carbon piece to give the plain nuts someplace level to tighten against. Also you can see the Xray +1.5mm clamping aluminum hexes, and the JConcepts Serrated wheel nuts.

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...0/DSCN1330.jpg

TLR BB spring, aluminum collar spacer that is made by a local racer that works at a machine shop, Team C aluminum BB spring cup. As most of you know the TLR BB spring cups are impossible to find right now, luckily for me the local track owner is all about the Team C stuff. He had these spring cups on the wall. Exact dimentions of the TLR cup, and aluminum. Plus they were only $9!

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...0/DSCN1332.jpg

RS spindles, Xray standard width clamping aluminum hexes, and JConcepts serrated nuts.

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...0/DSCN1334.jpg

Look closely and you can see the shim I was talking about on the front axle.

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...0/DSCN1341.jpg

Top down look so you can see how everything is layed out. You can also see the cut down rear bumper.

There you have it, one of the trickest SC10's ever.

your esc runs hot cause you dont have a cap,other than that looks good

Actually, if you look in the last pic you can see the Speed Passion capacitor bank. It equals out to running 4 Tekin caps! It is hot because of the 6.5. It didn't get that hot without the fan either (130), it just runs warm with the fan (100).

One of the local tracks near me held a pretty big trophy race today, so I thought i'd head on up. We get there and run some practice and sit and listen to the drivers meeting. One of the track "managers" (higher power then normal people) was the one speaking. He then went on to talk about 1/10th 2wd Short Course Spec (Blinky). He was saying how anyone can check anyone's car and make sure they're blinking, and how he really doesn't want anyone to cheat. Later on in the day the same guy is sitting .2 seconds off TQ, which is not surprising, he's a great wheel and also spends a lot of time at the track. So out of curiosity, I went over and was taking a peak at his truck. Turns out he is running a XXX-SCB instead of the XXX-SCT he says he his. He was running a Short Course Buggy with a Truck body mounted on it. What do you guys think about that? Would you consider that cheating? What are some thoughts? Looking to hear a little feedback to see what you guys think.

I think it's bending the rules quite a bit. The XXX-SCB has a tiny bit longer wheelbase, making it handle better. As well as it has a very narrow chassis compared to the Short Course Truck, making it have much less body roll. It also jumps much better then the regular short course classes. And, most importantly, it's probably about half the weight. In mod, that's not a problem. But in spec, having have the weight makes the truck a TON faster, which you could clearly tell his truck was much faster then everyone else. He was running it in legal blinky, just half the weight made a lot more speed. Even over all of the benefits to him, they had a Short Course Buggy class! They had a specific class just for them, so it's not like he didn't have a class to race. He knew exactly the advantages he'd have with it. I guess you have to define more specifically what you would consider a "Short Course Truck".

ya thats not right. bring it up to the person in charge and see what they do

H8thatadmin.. nice truck man! I'll agree with you, that is a sick SC10 :nod:

Btw, what do you think about those JConcept wheel nuts? I have basic nuts on my FT right now, and they seem to get loose after a short run. So, I looked at the JConcept ones you got, and thought they looked real nice. Just a bit pricey, so I'd like to hear what people think about em' before I shell out like $22+ shipping for 4 wheel nuts :)

i just bought a castle 3800kv motor that i will be putting in my sc10 2wd.

I see no problem with it as long as he was running a short course body. If anything the narrow chassis would let more air under the body. Not to mention the narrower chassis would be lighter down low, thus raising the comparitive center of gravity. As long as he was not under the weight minimum (if they were even teching that) I see no problem with it. Maybe he was running a larger rotor in his motor.

They are significantly better than stock. Regular lock nuts wear out as the nylon wears away from repeated removal and installation. The serrated nuts don't wear out. Plus they hold WAY better, just snug them down and your good. You'll see the first time you try to take them off! Just so you know they come in packs of 4, and amain has them for $12.75! Thanks for the props on my truck. All of my other main race cars are that trick too.

well looks like people on this forums are still unwilling to answer simple questions. simple question and i'm told to read hundreds of pages of what will be mostly useless blabber. and you don't research about presents your given, they're surprises. Its such a pity that the only good rc forum is full of feminine cleaning products and the bag they came in also.

2 people have suggested opening up the transmission. When you did that did you see anything that looked broken or out of place?

Sorry but even at $12 those Jconcept wheel nuts are a waste of money IMHO. If your steel nyloc nuts are coming loose just replace them. Its like $2 for a package. I could replace them every other race for the summer and still be cheaper than the Jconcepts.

Dont get me wrong they are nice. Just not worth it imho.

It's probably the topshaft gears, I would suggest opening the trans and checking the teeth on the diff gear, idler and top shaft and if any of them look worn, stripped or peaked replace all. I bought a used FT SC10 that had a worn topshaft and it did the same thing. There is no substitute or quick and easy answer for fixing anything, so try reading and wrenching instead of calling people names. As a avid reader of this forum get tired of seeing the same questions over and over, try and figure some things out on your own cause you might just surprise yourself and not be a complete idiot with a Internet access