I'm running 22/75 for an FDR of 8.8. 23/75 would give me an 8.5 FDR.

I don't know where I got 3oz from for the ballast. Is about .6oz. I will add another 2.5 oz as you suggest! Thx always.

I just took a look at your setup sheet, and it looks like a real promising setup for my local track. I just bookmarked it in my "SC10 Setup Sheets" folder, and plan to try out the setup on Tuesday at my local track. I won't be able to match it identically, as I don't have the Avid BB spring sets yet, but I'll match everything I can. Thanks for taking the time to post it! And don't worry, if it ends up working perfect and everyone is trying to sneak a peak at my setup... I'll give you credit for it :D

Ohh, and one other thing, what brand aluminum rear hubs are you using? Racer's Edge, Factory Team AE?

Anyone running the STRC "BIG BONES"?

Any advantages/disadvantages?

No, but I should.
I've gone through 2 sets of CVD's and outdrives since January.:mad:

I run almost the same setup, except AE springs, AE pistons, front toe (-1), front camber(-1) and less weight (2oz.).
This is a fast setup!

AE Factory Team hubs. Just got a few sets of the Proline Tazer too. Looks really close to a Sniper/Gridiron, but very slightly wider. Which means more stability and smoother landings. Should give even more side bite and the wide center section lugs are about 1/16 wider than the Sniper/Gridiron also, so improved forward bite. Cant wait to try them!
http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/63fd8dba.jpg
Edit: Just busted out the calipers and the tires are actually 1.81 wide vs 1.70 for the Sniper. The pins are the same size, but their is one extra row of lugs sort of. Every other row has 5 pins, vs the Sniper has 4 pins in every row. So that .11 is made up of the one extra row and the center section is .315 vs .280. These are gonna be perfect for my local tracks. Maybe a Tazer in the rear and Sniper up front. Yeah buddy! Love new racing tires that improve on an already great tire. I will post some feedback asap!
http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/6c98d01f.jpg
Mounted Sniper on the left, unmounted Tazer on the right. Very subtle, but just a little improvement without ruining a great design.

First make sure your links are the same length. Then I try to work the suspension a few times and drop it from about 8 inches. where it settles is pretty close to where it runs. Adjust as needed then repeat till you have it where you want it.(half turn each side trying to keep both links equal) then make sure your trim is straight on your radio.

Thanks, I'm running in a 17.5 stock speedo class on a high traction track. I'm close to what you have minus the half oz next to the receiver and on the top plate so I will give that a shot this weekend.

Not legal for roar races? Hadn't heard this but then again I do not race in anything official. If you are just doing club races, I would recommend it for the money. I bought one and have been running it in my open class stadium truck with no issues. Plenty of power. Plus its made by castle and can be hooked up to the castle link if you have one

Cool beans, Ill give it a shot. I'm gunna use the camber gauge on the wall method. I don't trust my eyeballing. Thanks broski

I know its been brought up on here before, but jeez the jconcepts blue hex adapters are horrible. Just went to install and stripped one front and one rear, the other two went on ok. What the heck. Avid here I come

Thanks Mate

I should of said not legal for Pro2 at my local.

Well before I knock jconcepts too much, I did complain through email and they are sending me new front and back so at least they were nice enough to do that

Yep, they will take care of you. BUT: the replacement hubs will still have the short screws. Get some M2x6 screws or you will strip them again.

Do you have a link to whcih M2x6 screws?