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-   -   SC10 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/286773-sc10-thread.html)

J_Bone 05-04-2012 06:25 PM


Originally Posted by Cloaked (Post 10692583)
Do you have a link to whcih M2x6 screws?

Any will do. You are more than likely to find them in the Plane section. The ones I got are Dubro's. I've post this before, I guess no reads my post. oh well.
These will do as well.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLBR1&P=7
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Cap-Screws-10
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...mm-Cap-Screw-4
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...p-Head-Screw-6

ChadB. 05-04-2012 11:38 PM

Anybody using the +3 wheels, if so, are you using them in the front and back? Is everyone shaving the "U" brace down?

Bondobird 05-05-2012 02:17 AM

Hey guys, I'm thinking of upgrading my ballistic 10.5 to a 7.5. Any gearing and timing suggestions for the ballistic 7.5? Esc is a mamba max pro so I'll probably play with the boost a little. Thanks in advance for any help

savannahmick 05-05-2012 03:27 AM


Originally Posted by nismomike (Post 10689768)
AE Factory Team hubs. Just got a few sets of the Proline Tazer too. Looks really close to a Sniper/Gridiron, but very slightly wider. Which means more stability and smoother landings. Should give even more side bite and the wide center section lugs are about 1/16 wider than the Sniper/Gridiron also, so improved forward bite. Cant wait to try them!
http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/63fd8dba.jpg
Edit: Just busted out the calipers and the tires are actually 1.81 wide vs 1.70 for the Sniper. The pins are the same size, but their is one extra row of lugs sort of. Every other row has 5 pins, vs the Sniper has 4 pins in every row. So that .11 is made up of the one extra row and the center section is .315 vs .280. These are gonna be perfect for my local tracks. Maybe a Tazer in the rear and Sniper up front. Yeah buddy! Love new racing tires that improve on an already great tire. I will post some feedback asap!
http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/6c98d01f.jpg
Mounted Sniper on the left, unmounted Tazer on the right. Very subtle, but just a little improvement without ruining a great design.

I have been running them for a month and the Tazers are awesome best tire I have ever run even on multiple conditions. They work best on hard pack with a little or no dust. Like them so much ordered at set for my nitro buggy! I do have a couple setup questions! I seen a post online saying that moving the rear camber link out to the last hole on hub away from truck and shorten wheelbase by putting hub spacers all behind hub will give you much better rear grip coming off corners and I am going to try it today in my points race but I seen the setup a couple pages back and it's more like what I had. Anybody else running long camber links and short wheelbase with success on outdoor hard pack with dust? Thanks!

beidle99 05-05-2012 04:48 AM

getting ready to order a SC10 and battery for my daughter to play with. What is the inside measurments of the battery tray? I don't want to have the truck but tell her she can't run it because I have to wait another week to get a battery.

Lake Ober 05-05-2012 06:04 AM


Originally Posted by beidle99 (Post 10694358)
getting ready to order a SC10 and battery for my daughter to play with. What is the inside measurments of the battery tray? I don't want to have the truck but tell her she can't run it because I have to wait another week to get a battery.

I just held a ruler up to it (don't have my calipers on me right now), and it looks like the tray is 48mm wide and about 200mm long. Though, I will say, the tray is longer then really any battery you will find. You can just cut your foam spacer to fit. It seems like nearly all 7.4v 5000mah hardcase packs will fit it. If I were you, I'd pick up a few of the Gens Ace while their in stock: http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-50...ProductReviews
you will RARELY actually seem them available! Hope that helps.

truluv215 05-05-2012 06:22 AM

3800kv
 
so i just replaced my cheapper venom 3300kv motor with the Castle 3800kv 5mm motor. any pointers with this motor would be very much appreciated. i havent ran it yet i just got everything together and hoping to go on a test run sometime today.:tire:

J_Bone 05-05-2012 07:41 AM


Originally Posted by savannahmick (Post 10694237)
I have been running them for a month and the Tazers are awesome best tire I have ever run even on multiple conditions. They work best on hard pack with a little or no dust. Like them so much ordered at set for my nitro buggy! I do have a couple setup questions! I seen a post online saying that moving the rear camber link out to the last hole on hub away from truck and shorten wheelbase by putting hub spacers all behind hub will give you much better rear grip coming off corners and I am going to try it today in my points race but I seen the setup a couple pages back and it's more like what I had. Anybody else running long camber links and short wheelbase with success on outdoor hard pack with dust? Thanks!

I would try moving the hub forward first. Try it and see how it drives. I was having issues similar to yours and running my hubs in the middle was the best for me. Putting the camber link in the outside hole will keep the same degree of camber throughout the whole travel of suspension.

ChadB. 05-05-2012 09:20 AM


Originally Posted by ChadB. (Post 10694020)
Anybody using the +3 wheels, if so, are you using them in the front and back? Is everyone shaving the "U" brace down?

Anyone?

J_Bone 05-05-2012 09:42 AM


Originally Posted by ChadB. (Post 10694020)
Anybody using the +3 wheels, if so, are you using them in the front and back? Is everyone shaving the "U" brace down?


Originally Posted by ChadB. (Post 10695053)
Anyone?

Yes and yes. I'm not running the shaved U-brace but a few guys are. If you do shave it, you should get the C - hub. It is lower as well.
But you have to use the aluminum B44 hub to attach the c-carbon camber link.

ChadB. 05-05-2012 10:39 AM


Originally Posted by J_Bone (Post 10695114)
Yes and yes. I'm not running the shaved U-brace but a few guys are. If you do shave it, you should get the C - hub. It is lower as well.
But you have to use the aluminum B44 hub to attach the c-carbon camber link.

Cool, thanks Jason. By having the +3 wheels, does the truck handle better?

entitymugenmtx 05-05-2012 10:59 AM

What servo and speed control is everyone using for there sc10 ?

J_Bone 05-05-2012 12:26 PM


Originally Posted by ChadB. (Post 10695268)
Cool, thanks Jason. By having the +3 wheels, does the truck handle better?

Yes it doess. Its more stable and allows me to run less camber so I get more lateral grip without traction rolling.


Originally Posted by entitymugenmtx (Post 10695333)
What servo and speed control is everyone using for there sc10 ?

I use an Airtronics that .08 speed and 200lbs. of torque. For me, I want mt servos at least .10 for speed and 125lbs. of torque for SC10.

rcboy1 05-05-2012 01:34 PM


Originally Posted by entitymugenmtx (Post 10695333)
What servo and speed control is everyone using for there sc10 ?

http://www.trick-parts.com/product_p/rp1005m.htm
:nod:This thing is well suited, it is also the fastest servo I've even seen.

Rysuleod 05-05-2012 02:57 PM


Originally Posted by entitymugenmtx (Post 10695333)
What servo and speed control is everyone using for there sc10 ?

Tekin RS, Savox 1258, Novak Ballistic 8.5. Probably should be using a 10.5 at my track but who doesn't love more power?


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