Here is a pic of the upper and lower collars that I made for the BB Springs. They fit perfect with no binding. I am waiting on the springs to come in for my T4, and B4... The collars are .200" in total thickness so they won't affect the ride height...

Rear Camber Turnbuckle placement, New Factory Team Build
 

Hello all,

Im nearing completion of my first SC10 kit build. Its a factory team kit. I'd like some advice on setting the Rear Camber Turnbuckle length. Im using Integy 1 degree alluminum read hubs and they have 6 positions. 3 upper, 3 lower. I chose to set the rear arm mount for 2.5 degrees with a antisquat shim of 1 degrees. So thats a total of 3.5 degrees toe in.

I race on an outdoor dirt track with varying conditions. Medium to loose dirt. Some areas tight packed. It varies.

Can you all give m some suggestions and insight as to what the different positions on my Integy Rear Hub will produce as to behavior of the truck on an outdoor track, medium to loose grip?

See Photo below

I've been racing Losi prior (there I am, out of the closet) and I hear Sc10's need some tweaking on the rear for grip. Also I will be running JConcepts 3mm wide offset Hazard Wheels with Goosebumps on rear and Subcultures for the front. I also have a rear swaybar kit ready. For Oil, I plan on using 35wt Losi Oil front, 32.5 Weight Losi Oil front. Im running a Tekin 10.5T Sensored Motor w/ Tekin RS ESC. Otherwise all factory team. In general, Im looking for rear end setup advice, Outdoor Dirt. Thanks In advance, JT

Attachment 883984

sc10
 

i am looking for a team factory sc10

please pm me price and pic if you have roller or complete setup 2wd

Sounds like your track is similar to mine.
For turnbuckle length, I run mine center hole on hub (I have T4.1 Aluminum hubs) and inside on brace. Mine doesn't have the upper and lower holes on hub.I uploaded a setup sheet I made for our last series race. This seemed to be a good setup, but I may go with heavier shock oils in rear.
Here's a picture of the track to compare it to: Link to post; http://www.rctech.net/forum/10305592-post1686.html
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7026/6...fc3d221a_b.jpg

Setup:
http://inlinethumb02.webshots.com/22...600x600Q85.jpg

Those are SWEET man! You made them... are you a machinist? Good job dude, I wish I had some of those :)

That track looks awesome! I wish we had a track like that around here

Yeah I made them, and yes I am a machinist... I make thing for my R/C cars out of our scrap bin. We trash so much alum and titanium its crazy. And with how small the parts are I never have to use the material in the stock rack. It's good "Training" LOL...

Nice work!

If you ever make hexes, let me know. I'll throw you some PayPal for some. I like the new ProLine ones with the grub screw. Not the pinch ones lime jconcepts. Those strip out real easy.
Heck, if you have any extra spring collars I'll take some!!

last nite guys at the track after a 8 min A main i came off the track running 200 degrees and i know that is way to darn hot and im geared at 75/26. what gearing are you stock guys running?

can you make more? I want a set lol

I second this, haha :) I would definitely pay you to make 4 of them for me if your ever interested!

I was gonna say the same exact thing! I would LOVE to be living in NV or CA where all of the sweet tracks are. We need something like that here in good ol' PA :D

I have just switched over my SCT from Losi to SC10. I run at a track with a few assoc. sponsored guys and one of the guys found a set up using black buggy front spring rate 4.1. When switching over i used the ghetto traxxas bottoms drilled out since Losi is out of stock everywhere. Yellow Losi 22t rate 2.0 rears make for a great combo with the blacks up front. Plenty of steering, it seems like the SC10 likes to be ran a bit stiffer, but we are on a an indoor track. One of the posters above referenced rear traction being an issue. I think the trick is to stiffen the front up (slow it down) to be able to push the truck harder. Tried losi 22t fronts green rate 3.5, not stiff enough.

to use the black losi fronts, I also used traxxas rtr spacers between the traxxas collar and assoc collar

Had an idea, Why dont the make hexs like the do for 1/8th scale where the hex does over the axle and the pin goes through the hex. Seems like that would solve the pulling the wheel off and worrying about the hex coming off with it...

I like to run the 3.5 toe block with the 1* hubs personally. Also run the factory team rear ballest weight and 1 oz of weight under the rear battery foam to start out with. Start out with the longer upper rear camber length and try that first. BTW, your rear arms are on upside down, swap them left to right.