Quoted to show part #s for the front hex conversion, youll also need to make sure you have some of the small 4-40 nuts for the steering turnbuckle balls.

Just check out page #575 of this forum, about 3/4 of the way down the page. Brent did a good job of explaining what you need. Hope that helps!

I have no way of knowing how much charge they need...my charger is pretty basic... I guess I just assumed a bigger batt would make it quicker than my buddies also stock sc10....it wasnt on asphalt wen we dragraced in fact his pulled mine a little at the start...guess I wont be wasting anymore money on a competition battery:flaming:

using rear wheels up front
 

Can I get the hex conversion and not use the hex adapter up front so I can use old style rears on the fronts?

Just double checking, I think I read something similar in another thread.

not 100% sure.. but im thinking there isnt enough threads showing to do this.. but ive also thought about it.

Hey CraigMBA,
I went to my LHS yesterday and got the AE hub carriers, crush sleeves, and bearings that you mentioned to me in a post yesterday. I installed everything, and it all fits fine. I sure hope those bearings hold up better next week when I go to practice. I'd love it if they don't fall apart after one practice like my stock sized ones :)

Anyways, just out of curiousity... do you have any idea why my stock SC10 rear wheel bearings would have come apart right after I installed the hex adapters? I just wasn't sure why they would come apart just because I put a little adapter over the pin. The only thing I could think of is maybe because where the adapter puts pressure on the bearing is different then the stock FT setup, but just a thought?? :confused:

Lack of bushing in between bearings.?

Can someone explain why the proline front hex has a lot of slop?

I have the rs kit on my front and its cool and all but you can't shim it up and down, I'm thinking about running the old wheels up front just so I can do that.


Also I put the blue washers on the outside of the hub for the hex to tighten up to , it tightened up the slop and squared up the wheel better.

I gotta work all day Saturday so my practice time is gonna be limited. :cry:

I shouldn't complain but I am. ;)

What do you mean by bushing? Like the blue coneish shape washer? That i suppose could make sense... maybe because more pressure is put at one spot when it was removed, rather then spaced out like the washer would have done. Hmm.. just thought it was odd :)

They will work good on a smooth blue groove indoor or out! Any loam, dust, or a wet track could be pretty tough with the tiny pins IMO. I think Hole Shot 2.0, Snipers, and AKA Enduro work really good outdoors but my buddy ran some Bar Codes the other day and they worked decent so give them a try. I am curious how they worked so post some results if you get a chance! Good Luck!

no there is a silver aluminum shim that goes in between the bearings inside the hub. without that your bearings are toast.

:nod:

I sheared a roll pin practicing this afternoon...


The LHS has roll pins (in the form of a hex replacement kit... 4 hexes, 4 roll pins, 4 washers and maybe 4 nuts...). Anyhow... They also had a

http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSB3497


Will the pins in that fit? It only has 2 pins but they look to be the same size (maybe 1mm longer) but they're solid.


Would it be an upgrade? They're a little more expensive for two that the AE ones are for 4 is the problem, and of course they also come with hexes that wouldn't be spares...

Bad luck?

A number of users claimed that AE had a bad bunch of bearings, which is possible, but I think unlikely. If I had to guess, probably the crush was different enough you just sped up it's death. The only bearings I've killed were on....

Yeah, you overtightened it, and then ran it that way. The AE axle has a c clip for thrust, the pro line one doesn't. You can crank down the AE one till you break your wrist and it's not going to bind, but the proline one not so much. But if you want the wider one, the price to you pay is to be real careful when you tighten it up.

If you treat the nut the same way you treated it when you had the older non hex wheel (with the bearings in the wheel), you'll be fine.

Also, the Proline bearings that come with that kit are utter junk. Mine were dust in one race day. The AE stock ones are the same size, and have served well since I swapped them.

sc10
 

what rear hub is every one runing just got a set of .5 alum do i need to get the 0 and 1. hubs to or not