I second this, as the source of your clicking noise. I have a Traxxas 1/16 E-Revo VXL with a gear diff., and had this exact same "clicking" problem. I shimmed it, and never heard the clicking again. I know this is a completely different car, but the principle is still the same.

shocks and hex's
 

i recently bought a new sc10ft kit. i've been racing carpet with it. and i do mean carpet...mostly old office carpet. not the rc track stuff.
right now i have red springs and 50wt at both ends. if i go into a corner hard enough, it picks the inside rear tire off the ground and i loose drive. any suggestions?

has anybody tried puttling the 4x4 shocks on the 2wd sc? i know they are slightly shorter, but you use downtravel limiters anyway. then we could have big bores like everyone else.

if i wanted to switch to hex mounted wheels....is there any advantage to the proline front kit($26-$30) over just getting the associated parts($10-$12)?

Seems to be a somewhat common problem with the SC10RS. I have two of them and they both did that. Contact AE, they will send out shims to put behind the sun gears in the diff. That's the problem, they're not shimmed quite right.

A few pages back is plenty of info on the front conversion .. and you could possibly try the front sway bar conversion. Probly if you google it you can find the write up.

Pinion gear size on my sc10
 

I have had my truck for about a month and have been practicing with the pinion gear that came with it. The stock set up with mine is the Reedy 3300kv brushless motor with a 18 tooth pinion. Yesterday I tried a 22 tooth and a 24 tooth pinion and the speed was much faster. It accelerated very well also. I was running the truck on the street so I cant really tell if it will have enough tourqe to clear some of the jumps at my local track. The straight away at my track is about 120 ft and other than that there are some nice doubles and triples. What pinion gear are some of you running with the stock motor. I dont want to overheat anything but I am ready to go faster.

With brushless motors the more you "gear up" the more speed and tourqe you will get but that comes with a price more "heat". I wouldnt jump up to a 22 or 24 tooth pinion from a 18 tooth pinion, when you are trying to find the right gearing the most you want to go up in the pinion size at a time is a couple teeth maybe 1 or 2 teeth. You wont be able to tell if you are geared right untill you get to the track and run your truck and see if you have the amount of speed and tourqe that you need. Leave the pinion you have on there now (22 tooth) and run it at the track, your temps will be different compared to running full throttle up and down the street vs running on the track. If the temps are under 150 then you are fine.

SC10 Asphalt/road tires
 

I just got a SC10 and was looking for a cheap pair of road tires just to mess around with in the street? Would something like this work?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJDS3&P=SM

They will work but they are not ment for short course trucks. Here is a link to some tires I would reccomend for street running. :)

http://prolineracing.com/tires/stree...-black-wheels/

They are more expensive but they are made for SC trucks. Also to run those wheels and tires that I linked you have to be running 12mm hex's in the front and rear. If you are not buy the stock wheels and buy those tires seperate.

You went from a stock FDR of 12.57 to (22pinion) 10.28 to (24pinion) 9.43.
as that # drops the more top speed you gain.

If you want to go faster. Get a new motor system. The Reedy 3300kv is a underpowered motor for the truck. It is fast but runs hot,

Stock gearing in mine my motor comes off at 224 degs after 5 mins of driving it hard.

This issue was discussed heavily in the Official SC10 4x4 (starting on pg 697) thread as it also runs gear diffs. The clicking noise only happens on hard acceleration but disappears once the truck is at speeds. The problem area is in the sun gear. There is a bit of play and the gears don't mesh and click. You need to open the gear diff and add a extra shim under each side under the sun gears. This fixed the issue for just about everyone that experienced this problem.

Edit: I guess others have chimed in already on shimming.

Awesome, thanks for the link, but can you explain the whole 12mm hex thing? I just purchased the RC10 Race Spec as my first truck so it's all factory and I'm just a noob when it comes to the specifications tech details.

Ok, so you bought the Sc10 RS truck? If you did then you are set, you can buy those tires and they will bolt right on. No mods needed! :)

Sweet thanks again!

Use the stock tires, they are garbage for the dirt anyway.

Agreed :)