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honestly back in the day you would get a car that had carbon parts and other upgrades.
I have to say I was pretty surprised that the FTs DON'T come with that stuff and have a bigger cost. |
Originally Posted by AlanHall
(Post 10257591)
Anyone running hazard wheels..how do you keep them from grabbing the body in front? I just know forsure but my friends said it looked like they were grabbing my body and spinning me out. I was struggling so much I didn't know what was what.
You may need to trim your body or raise it up a bit. what body are you using exactly? |
So, should I try 40 front and 35 rear? I see that most people have red springs up front and silver in the rear. Also, wondering if moving the shocks to outside on front tower would help.
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Originally Posted by Mxer59
(Post 10258447)
Are there that big of difference between the too? I just bought a RS and my buddy has the FT beside the lighter parts and blue anodized stuff, what's the biggest difference? I am going to put a rear cvds on instead of dog bones
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Originally Posted by jmc5313
(Post 10258327)
Obviously im new to the game but......why cant I buy a factory team rtr?...even as a novice I wud def have bought a ft vs. a rs...im gonna end up spending as much to upgrade the one I own as it wud to buy a kit and put those parts on my truck!!!!.....missed oppurtunity associated!!!...but not really huh?:flaming:
Like I said, this is just my opinion and don't want anyone to get mad at me if I didn't explain it correctly... everyone looks at things differently :) And to answer your question about upgrading your RS version, it is true you could upgrade your truck to match the specs of a FT. But, it may cost you more in the long run. I mean the threaded V2 shocks that are on the FT would cost you $84 alone. It may be a better bet to sell your RS used and then take the money and buy a FT kit. If I were you I would just research what all the parts cost and see which route would be more beneficial for you and your situation. Either way, I hope you figure it all out... the FT is a SWEEETTT truck :nod: |
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 10258522)
I would say drive you vehicle and watch how it leans in the turns.
You may need to trim your body or raise it up a bit. what body are you using exactly? |
Originally Posted by AlanHall
(Post 10258610)
Proline pro2 chevy
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Originally Posted by Lake Ober
(Post 10258633)
Ohh, maybe that's the difference? I am just running the stock AE body that comes with the FT kit.
some bodys have different cut lines and shape changes that can cause issues on tires. |
Originally Posted by Lake Ober
(Post 10258595)
IMO, I believe that it is good that the FT version is only made as a kit. I personally own a FT SC10 and look at it this way.... most people that buy an RS, buy it and run it with the brushless motor and mostly stock parts (a $300 truck), and aren't usually as interested in knowing how every single part on the truck is put together. Then, most of the people that buy a FT want it with very specific parts like the ESC, Motor, receiver, servo, tires, etc. and want to put it together themselves so that they can insure everything was installed just right... things like the shocks, ball diff, wheels/tires, etc... things that take some time to get jussttt the way you want them. So, the FT trucks typically ends up costing over $550+ when its said and done.
Like I said, this is just my opinion and don't want anyone to get mad at me if I didn't explain it correctly... everyone looks at things differently :) And to answer your question about upgrading your RS version, it is true you could upgrade your truck to match the specs of a FT. But, it may cost you more in the long run. I mean the threaded V2 shocks that are on the FT would cost you $84 alone. It may be a better bet to sell your RS used and then take the money and buy a FT kit. If I were you I would just research what all the parts cost and see which route would be more beneficial for you and your situation. Either way, I hope you figure it all out... the FT is a SWEEETTT truck :nod: |
I don't think anyone in this thread can do anything about it lol
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Originally Posted by AlanHall
(Post 10258935)
I don't think anyone in this thread can do anything about it lol
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Originally Posted by Lake Ober
(Post 10258633)
Ohh, maybe that's the difference? I am just running the stock AE body that comes with the FT kit.
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I have what is almost certainly a newb question...
When I hit the throttle I get a clicking sound. Is that the slipper plates skipping in their hex shapes, the idler gear, the dog bones... ??? It's an SC10RS with the gear diff. I've added a pretty heavy weight grease in the diff and used the same grease in the gearbox. The drive train seems pretty smooth so I'm assuming it's the slipper. I've tightened the slipper down and it didn't seem to go away. It doesn't seem to only happen from a standing start either... it seem to happen any time I increase the throttle and not in either direction more than the other. |
Originally Posted by M1Combat
(Post 10259351)
I have what is almost certainly a newb question...
When I hit the throttle I get a clicking sound. Is that the slipper plates skipping in their hex shapes, the idler gear, the dog bones... ??? It's an SC10RS with the gear diff. I've added a pretty heavy weight grease in the diff and used the same grease in the gearbox. The drive train seems pretty smooth so I'm assuming it's the slipper. I've tightened the slipper down and it didn't seem to go away. It doesn't seem to only happen from a standing start either... it seem to happen any time I increase the throttle and not in either direction more than the other. take your tranny out and check the internals. most likely it's the idler gear. if you land on-power and the slipper doesn't slip all of that power-momentum has to go somewhere and ends up in the tranny where the most stress will be at. check it out and let us know what you find D |
Originally Posted by M1Combat
(Post 10259351)
I have what is almost certainly a newb question...
When I hit the throttle I get a clicking sound. Is that the slipper plates skipping in their hex shapes, the idler gear, the dog bones... ??? It's an SC10RS with the gear diff. I've added a pretty heavy weight grease in the diff and used the same grease in the gearbox. The drive train seems pretty smooth so I'm assuming it's the slipper. I've tightened the slipper down and it didn't seem to go away. It doesn't seem to only happen from a standing start either... it seem to happen any time I increase the throttle and not in either direction more than the other. If your RS is under 60 or 90 days old. Send them a email and they should send you new rebuild shims in the mail. Mine did it day one out of the box. |
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