You could try a Tekin pro4! That's what all the 4x4 are running. It's 550 performance in a 540 can. I was wondering if that would work well in the 2wd, cause it just rips in the 4x4.

Mod 2wd? Few guys that do run mod 2wd, run 8.5s and 7.5s

Few of the really good drivers run 13.5 boosted to the gills. Pretty dam fast too.


its a 5mm shaft on the motor though, do they have 48p 5mm shaft pinons?

Never the less, the Pro4 would be WAAAAAAAY too much motor for a SC10 2wd. Just my opinion....

I know someone running a 4 pole castle motor. Loads of torque.

For your setup, un-boosted you could do an 8.5 .

If you are looking for a stator at that level feel free to pm me, I have one that I could sell you.

Out here against vehicles using 13.5 and 10.5s I ran a havoc 2S with 8.5 and felt competitive.

Can you point me to where these bigger spacers can be bought? What size are they? I had to replace my rear bearings last. Thanks!

Good point, not sure about the 5mm shaft for 48p. Whats' the lowest KV they make int the pro4 a 3800? Yea would be too much motor, but wouldn't' have a problem with the heavy 4x4's catching up.

I think they are the plastic spacers that come with the kit but are for shock limiting.

At least, thats what I think I used. I got some many right now from a variety of vehicles that I just use my caliper to find the right size.

My buddy has a ft sc10 put in a mamba 4600kv 4-pole and burnt up his transmission and rear bearing in two races

Same here. I have a Havok Pro SC, with a 8.5. Large indoor high bite clay track.

Perfect for our track with a 21 pinion, 87 spur. Pm me if you have any ? on my ESC settings.

Are the rear sways worth it on this truck? I put the rear RPM arms on which don't have mounts for the sways, and the cross bar on the arm is right where it should be mounted. I could probably rig something up, but is it worth it? I ran on the local carpet track and it was fine without them, I'm racing Saturday on a slick clay track, but won't have much time to experiment before race starts.

What collars are you using for the losi springs? Or did I just get the wrong ones?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ate-Red-TLR-22

I'm using the V2 FT shocks

There is this function....

http://psx-scene.com/forums/attachme...his_thread.png

Sorry, I'm in a kind of bad mood because the Clippers are getting blown the F- out. Here is the info you are looking for:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10172239-post9004.html

If you want to run Losi springs in the front, or Koyosho big bores in the rear, you'll need the GEHA collars. I got mine in two days from Absolute Hobbyz. Just awesome. Otherwise, the traxxas retainers will work, but you'll have zero adjustment on the front springs (you have to remove the collar to get the preload right).

Verified.

My current setup is gold springs 2.56mm(0.100") preload inner tower mount, outer arm mount. 28mm ride height

I installed the Losi cups, Traxxas collars and Pink lose springs at .100" Preload ride height went to 35mm. I removed all preload I can ride height is at 28mm.
Silver springs are on order. I am wondering if they are going to be 1/4" shorter. Grey's rear are 1/4" longer than white rear's

Thank you for that great tip! I had no idea what that big search button did:D

Yea I searched for "Losi spring collars" and your post talking about those which you said cost $$$ came up. I was hoping to broaden my options a bit.

I use the med. sway bar on high bite clay (w/ Panther Switch Clays). Needed the sway to break the back end loose. I also have RPM arms and put the ball stud at that junction on the rear. The geometry isn't right (not perpendicular to the bar), but it did what I needed it to. I assume the angle of the all-thread link simply makes a medium sway bar a lighter one (part of the force vector is horizontal, rather than lifting the bar, and doesn't translate the the other side). The light bar in that setup didn't do much. I didn't try the heaviest bar. It's worth an experiment. It's just a shallow hole in the beefiest part of a beefy arm (and the side that will, most likely, be in compression in a crash). I considered making a piano wire sway bar to correct the geometry but, again, it worked, so I didn't bother. Your mileage may vary, but it worked great for me.

Did you mount them on the outside of the arms or on the inside of the arms but to the outside of the junction? Do you have a pic? That would be much appreciated. I've had trouble finding pictures of the setup.