Just one other quick question... you said that you have 9 1/4 oz. of weight in the rear of the battery compartment. Do you use heavier weights? Just because all of the weights at my two LHS are only .25 oz ones or 10 gram (.35 oz) ones. So, if I wanted to put something like 9 oz. in the rear of my SC10 using these small .25oz. weights, I would need to put 36 of them in there. I figured you probably had heavier weights, but just thought I'd ask. Thanks :)

Ohh, yep I bet your right. I knew I was having a "duhh" moment :nod: Thanks Cain.

I believe he is saying he is using 9 of the 1/4 oz weights. 3 rows of 3. For a total of 2 1/4 oz of weight. That's how I run mine also.

Wow, I feel really dumb now :lol: Thanks for helping me out

And one thing I was wondering about and maybe some of you on here can give me some insight. I have an FT SC10, which I assembled myself, and took LOTS of time to do the process explained here on RCtech to properly sand the diff. rings and assemble the ball diff. properly. I noticed that the FT kit comes with carbide balls, so I would assume they should be okay to reuse for one diff. rebuild... if I clean them off and rebuild the other diff. components. What is everyone else's experience with rebuilding their ball diffs? Like... how often do you typically find it needs rebuilt? Do you usually reuse carbide balls more then once? Do you think its better to use ceramic or carbide thrust balls rather then the stock steel ones? Thanks for you input guys :)

Yup, like jerz said its a total of 2 and 1/ 4 oz he has in the rear...Btw .25 oz is the same as 1/4 oz, so use 9 of the .25oz wieght's..;)

I should have worded it better my bad. But yeah 9 .25's behind the foam and 1 in each triangle section behind the esc and rx.

As far as the diff. I use carbide diff and ceramic thrust. I only reuse them if they still feel ok. If they are real gritty then they get replaced.

about the balls, i don't know what they are, i tink there not so good but the ceramic balls from hobbybearingstore @ ebay are superb, that and trf diff grease

The most important thing on diff maintenance is the rings. When you disassemble the diff, if you see a ring on the thrust bearing where the balls ran, you need to get a piece of 320 grit sandpaper and sand the thrust bearing washer/diff ring in a figure 8 pattern till the ring disappears. Relube, assemble and go.

I use ceramic balls on both, and they will last forever - they are orders of magnitude harder than steel. The rings will last till you get tired of sanding them.

I can get about 3 race days out of an overhaul. I can do one in about 10 minutes in and out.

Oh, so your saying that you don't completely replace the rings inside your diff. whenever you rebuild it? You just simply sand down the diff. ring and the thrust washers, and then reassemble? This is all granted that I am using both ceramic thrust balls and diff. balls, not the stock carbide diff. balls and steel thrust balls.

Should'nt matter what balls you use its the same process.

What gears should I start with this thing for 17.5 non-boosted? Running a Tekin and an X12.

without anything to go off of (assuming nothing recommended for the X-12), try the stock gearing from the book, and changing gearing based on the longest-straight method while watching temps using the stock timing location.

Now, after you got it where you feel it is working well, I personally would then play with the timing on the motor can.

Anyone have any info on this?

you could try shimming out the slop. I don't have off hand a number on some small shims, but I believe AE used to make some for there touring car or something that could work.

It could also be slop developing in the actual arm where the hingepin goes through. In that case, you need to put on new arms (same thing with the rear hubs)

Yep. I never change them.

I usually change the diff lube, but if I'm in a hurry, I don't even change that. The thrust bearing gets cleaned/relubed everytime.

Depends. The carbide diff balls are probably okay for a long long time (because there are 12 or 14 of them, I forget), but the thrust balls take a real pounding (because there's only six).

In any case, I would clean the balls with motorspray, and inspect them carefully on a towel. If they still have good finish (like the mirror like finish they have when they are new) I'd reuse them. If they are discolored, dull, or pitted, I'd change them. With ceramic balls the biggest issue you have is losing one when you are cleaning it.

Remember - I'm not doing this because I'm cheap (I am, but that's not the point). I'm doing this because it works. If it doesn't feel brand new when you got done, something is wrong or worn out and you need to redo it.