I run my revtech 17.5 at 25/75 with 24 degrees timing on the endbell . On a large 1/8th scale track and it comes off 130 after 10 min with the mmp on sensor only mode .

JConcept Rulux Wheels - Benefits?
 

Hey Guys

I need to grab some new wheels to put set of JConcepts Cubcultures and Goosebumps on and was looking at the JConcepts RULUX wheels but is there any benefit to running them over the stock SC10RS KMC wheels?

Lighter?, Stronger?

Cheers
Will

I think KMC and Rulux are identical, performance and offset. The Hazard Wheels are offset wider, but some aluminum hex adapters already add some offset. Wider is, of course, better for handling.

are the gear differentials alot better than the ball differentials? the reason i am asking is because i am thinking about upgrading to the gear differentials.

I think of it as an down grade.
Ball diff's are lighter with have less rotating mass and are easily adjusted for changing track conditions.

well i am problems with my ball differential what ever i do to adjust it nothing changes. how do i know if it is set correctly?

What are you trying to make happen?

You should feel it in how the truck drives. I like a tight diff and my track is usually medium to high traction. But during the heat races the track will get dusty and a bit slippery so I will loosen it a bit. For the Main I will tighten it back up since it's usually sweep and watered.

Put your truck up on a stand with the rear wheels free.
Turn one rear wheel clockwise and the other counter clock wise. You can feel it the diff is smooth or gritty(feeling). If it's really gritty, then rebuild. If smooth to a little gritty then your ok. It takes a while to get the feel of it, but once you do it's easy.

Here's a technique to try. Place a mark on the tire at 12 o'clock. You can use soap stone or even spit. I've licked my finger to mark it on the tire. Hold one tire firm and don't move it. Take the other tire and give it a good firm spin. How far it spins will tell you how tight it is.
Tight diff when I spin it will stop between 6-9 o'clock. Actually 9 o'clock is medium and a good all around spot. But if it goes past it's loose. If it comes back to 12 o'clock, it's too loose.
It will take some practice to get the proper feel of how hard to spin it, but give it a shot and use that as a guide for how loose or tight your diff is.

ALSO...If you rebuild your diff, make sure you break it in properly! There is a good one stickied here, but I don't like popping off my ball cups as much as he does, so I actually break mine in out of the truck with a drill. Nismo Mike has a good write up on it. You just use a old dog bone in a drill. Works great.

i know your going to hate me but i hate these forums for searching on issues and how i fix my issue, i have the sc10 ft truck with v2 shocks, i keep leaking out the top end because of the crappy oring that is there, i have watched several videos on youtube how to properly seal them and i have done so, tonight i tried some pipe thread seal tape and it sucks too. I have been in rc for a good long time and yet to experience these crappy shocks before, im thinking about going back to the stock sc10 rs shocks unless someone can help me figure this out. yes im whiney, i just want a solution !

it's a matter of opinion really.

I like the Gear diff's. I am just as fast with a gear diff over a ball diff. even hold a lap record as of now with a gear diff in my B4.1 FT

You are moving the o-ring all the way to the bottom of the threads and not sitting it on top like you would a bladder correct? That was my problem when I had issues with them leaking. Also may want to try the kyosho seals from a r5

as we discussed yesterday darryl, when you brought the vehicle over the diff was very loose. You need to tighten the diff. The manual says what setting to use, and if it was rebuilt recently it may be that it needs to seat properly. Or, if it was run loose for awhile, it may just need a rebuild.

When you go to tighten the diff, are you sure that the tool you are using is engaging the screw?

The gear diff is perfect for someone who is a basher like you and doesn't want to fuss with the ball diff. This is what was in the previous SC10 you purchased from me. This would be perfect for you. Look on ebay for someone parting out an SC10 with the gear diff and buy.

I would say order the gear diff, but take out your ball diff and give an attempt at a rebuild.

+1 :nod:

Are you using the plastic caps? Got my truck used with aluminum caps and never got them to seal. Fresh o rings and plastic caps and its been great. I don't think leaky caps are an issue that's very common.

for darryls purposes, he would be fine with the gear diff for sure.