full timing, 28 75 now and its 140 after main ;)

only kidding ik how u feel about this lol! I wanna run my sc10 now tho..

every body seems to be doing well with the team setup..

ugh how can u stand running the sc10 after running the buggies :p:ha:

anyone running or planning to run that avid steering rack?

I don't understand what the whole gluing the servo saver does.

the gluing the servo saver is to do the same thing as the aftermarket stuff, eliminate flex in that area. By eliminating the flex, you get more direct steering. f you take your SC10 with the stock setup throw your steering around lock to lock while it is still. Now, driving your vehicle around and at speed do the same thing. You will notice how you don't have the same amount of steering as you did before. thats because of the flex.

I got that GPM blue servo saver setup that basically does the same thing from what i can tell as the Avid rack, albeit probably not as nice looking.. Came in today and it also has the alloy ackerman bar (correct term?) as well. I may try it first without that part as that would give it alittle flex.

The E clip is used to give the bearing thrust in the front. You need to put that in, but you also will likely need more parts because you've likely either roached a bearing or wasted the knuckle. So congratulations, you now have all of the problems anyone ever had with the proline setup, PLUS you are 2mm narrower!

Seriously, put the e clip in.


This is mine. It measures .350" from the edge of the hub carrier to the edge of the hex. Note how little of the axle remains between the hex and the taper.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...-54-24_561.jpg

Lol the truck hasrbt been ran this way yet. It seems ok without the clip.I just can't crank down to much. But I will hunt down 2to clips before I run it.

As fir the back.. we are exactly the same.. I must be thin on the rim..

whats the sturdiest body out there for the sc10 that still looks like an sc?

thanks,

I run these spacers in the rear to make it wider:

http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-12mm...m-_p_1063.html

But even without them, I can chuck up every hex rim I have.

Could you get a measurement from the very end of the threads up to hex?

I put the axle nut on and ran it down till I bottomed it out, and measured the gap between the hex and the nut at .092". Hope you get it sorted out.

I'd like to see someone replace those stupid little bushings in the Ackerman bar with bearings. I think that's where a fair amount of the slop comes from in the steering.

Getting a used SC10 today. No experience with this truck. I also dont know what model it is. I know it has the rtr brushless set up in it. Ive been reading and sounds like there are all kinds of rear drive variations as far as axles, pin drives, hexes, crush tubes, etc. nightmare already!! What has been found to be the best, easiest option for that? Basically club level racing so I dont need any extravagant set up. Also, how can I determine what model I have?

Yeah I would too. Not sure why but GPM stuck with that setup too.

Got a link to your listing?

Basically if in your listing it looks like the front wheels have bearings in them, then you have the bearing / pin setup.

If your listing said it was a SC10RS, it should have the hex setup.


The hex setup makes it easier to line up the wheels on the rear, and you can also rotate your tires to call 4 corners getting better tread life as usually the rears where faster.

One *benefit* of the older setup is that you can probably find used and new wheels and front carriers slightly cheaper. At least, thats what I saw when I was pricing things up.

I personally had no issues with the pin / bearing setup. But, as I wanted the benefits of being able to rotate my tires in the future, I went with the hex setup.

Yeah I only switched cause I noticed amain and tower clearing out the old ones. They had premounts aka for $17 . Eventually it will be a pain to get wheels for the old stuff