I don't think it is that big of a deal but you could easily trim both sides of the spindle housing to allow for your fine adjustments.

I need some advice here. My sc10 needs a little help. Ran it for a while on indoor carpet, lots of practice. I bought it second hand. It needs some attention, such as outdrives need replacin, shock pistons and probably shocks themselves, quite a few parts that need the slop taken out of them. I even thought about replacing the rtr shocks with the ft shocks. Would I be better off buying a new kit or replacing all these parts???

EDIT: CVD's and some bearings would need replacing also.

page 666 >:)

has anyone modified rpm a arms to use the associated rear sway bar?

You got the RS steering arms. Here's the Pro Line kit I got. http://prolineracing.com/performance...t-inboard-hub/

I use hazards on the front and rear with No problems at all.

I keep seeing that weight is being added to the 2wd truck. What are the reasons to add weight and does the battery weight matter. I have some 2400 lipos that don't weigh much, but I use sky lipo 5000 mah 40c's that seem to be very heavy. Would I still need to add ballast? I'm having a problem with the rear of my truck not feeling consistent. Running ft stock setup except for gear diff, 4 deg rear toe, blue front springs,and silver rear springs. If my rear looses grip and wants to slide out, I have to almost stop and let the truck settle. If I let off the throttle slightly and counter steer to regain control, the rear will swing back the other way too much, like too much body roll. I've raced a rc10gt years ago and got pretty good at recovering from a loss of rear traction, but the sc won't recover without almost slowing completely down. I don't get to race very often so I hope someone on here can offer some good tips so I can be more competitive my next time out. Thanks

try reducing your rear toe block to 3* that should help

njnewc, no you can't and here is why.

So, I just went and looked at my SC10 and here is what I think. Because of the added bulk of the inboard bearing, it appears as though the spindle had to be made so that it can't be spaced differently. There is enough built in spacer on the hex spindles that you could take a dremel with a sanding drum and make room for spracers yourself. The only thing is there is not enough clearance between the spindles and the hubs to space them differently. Although with enough dremel work you could probably get the clearance needed to move the spindle up or down. After moving the old spindles up, were you re-setting your ride height? If not, then all you were doing is effectively lowering the ride height without changing the amount of droop. This can still be accomplished, by adding a droop spacer after lowering your ride height. Alot more work, but the same result. If you were re-setting your ride height, then you were basically taking away droop. Also it was changing the characteristics of the bump steer.

Put the old truck on ebay. 7 day, auction only, no reserve, $.99 staring bid. I did this when I realized my cobled together T4/SC10 pile was going to be just as much money to build into what I wanted as a new FT kit. And after all of that it would still have alot of old worn out parts. I got $130 for the old pile and put it towards a new FTSC10 much easier and much happier.

:weird: Here we go again.

sc10 011 - YouTube

Have pulled it down, heres a vid of it spinning, looks like the idler gear is fine so far as i can see.
Heres the inside of the gearbox
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...ls/sc10009.jpg

Am i right in thinking now that its the internal of the diff?

[QUOTE=h8thatadmin;10352553]njnewc, no you can't and here is why.

So, I just went and looked at my SC10 and here is what I think. Because of the added bulk of the inboard bearing, it appears as though the spindle had to be made so that it can't be spaced differently. There is enough built in spacer on the hex spindles that you could take a dremel with a sanding drum and make room for spracers yourself. The only thing is there is not enough clearance between the spindles and the hubs to space them differently. Although with enough dremel work you could probably get the clearance needed to move the spindle up or down. After moving the old spindles up, were you re-setting your ride height? If not, then all you were doing is effectively lowering the ride height without changing the amount of droop. This can still be accomplished, by adding a droop spacer after lowering your ride height. Alot more work, but the same result. If you were re-setting your ride height, then you were basically taking away droop. Also it was changing the characteristics of the bump steer.

There are 2 different style Caster blocks one has 2 holes and the other has 3 holes. I was told that each of them are a different size (one lower and one higher) therefore giving you the same effect as adding the spacers. I'm just not sure which one is which

Can anyone tell me what aluminum hex wheel adapters can be used to replace the one that come on the sc10rs. Looking for ones that clamp the stock ones come off with the wheel every time

I've had good luck with these..

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Adapter-Set-2


http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...tor-Set-Blue-2

Thx will try those

I use the jconcepts hubs, but good luck finding any right now. They are all on Back order. Pro Line make some, HPI and so do others. ALL on back order till late Feb or March.

People have stripped the threads in the jconcepts hexes and like these instead because you use a set screw to lock into place. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ter-Set-Blue-2

did some racing sunday, carpet over jumps in the open class. was running a stock motor.

I have to say the stock RTR tires actually worked well on the carpet. I am using the FT setup with a few modifications as far a settings go (but I may even go back to that as the fast guy was using more of the FT setup than I and I liked how his vehicle handled). but one thing every one is agreeing on is using the rear sway bar.

As for the hexes, i did the mod someone recommended by drilling the hex and putting in a set screw. works well. Worth a look if you can't locate some alloy hexes and hate your hexes coming off.

As for the whole slop issue, you may find you need to replace a-arms as well as the pin hole will slop out too.