2 spacers up front
1 spacer in the back
ball studs mounted on inner hole front/rear

Gray Losi BB springs and Silver (rear) BB losi springs in the front. I have a lot of traction coming out of turns

My truck handles nicely and its easy to drive, my buddy has a lot less weight and his handles great also and is consistently producing faster laps than myself. We switch at the track and we think each others cars feels great that is why in asking. I believe on don't fix what ain't broke but at the same time his truck times are faster. I need some help

on what kind of surface?

granted I run at this one place where it is really loose, track sucks.

I'll be 3/4 thru my turn and then she'll spin out.

going with -2 camber in the rear and moving the camber inward one hole from hub.

when you run on tighter, more technical tracks running 3oz will hurt you, I ran the track without the weight and it rotated so much better, turned in harder, jumped way better etc. I now run 2 oz tops, run the correct fresh tire and alter my throttle curve to take off some bottom end and that seems to be the right combo for me. . Optimally i'm going to run 1.5 oz under the tower and maybe and 5 oz in each triangle.

It depends on the track you are on, if you have low traction lengthen your camber link in the rear and use 2mm of spacing on your rear inner ball studs. Also use the new JConcepts Hazard wheels, you will gain 3mm in width on each side for a total of 6mm. This will not make the car illegal according to roar it will actually bring it to the maximum width. For the front you can use a 1mm shim under the front ball stud or no shim and use the middle hole on your caster, which will take steering out, because of less traction.

Higher roll center typically means more traction, so if thats what you looking for than try it. Jeffs right on with the wieght, I run no more than 3oz, also think about the motor your using, if your over powered than your hinder your ability to gain traction. I went from an 8.5 to a 9.5 and found it was much more drivable.

weight
 

i have 3 oz behind batt, 1/2 oz near receiver 1/2 oz in each front triangle and another 1/2 oz on the skid plate near the front of the bumper, my truck handles great but it feels heavy on the track can i make it lighter and still keep the same performance or even make it faster? if so then where should i remove the weight from on the truck?:confused:

hey guys a pretty stupid question here but mainly a nitro guy. How much do you guys really use the brakes? I'm just trying to improve driving on an indoor track with low to medium grip. I feel like I'm braking ALOT to get the truck to maneuver like i need through the turns. I have been running without a sway bar and it just seemed so loose and now that i put one on I feel that it is so tight i am having to really work the brakes alot. Could it just be a setup change needed or a driver adjustment?

Could be a little of both,
I'm new to off-road and have driven most on road from 1/8 nitro to 1/12th electric yet the transition to this truck has been the most difficult I've made. I've enjoyed it though as I've had to unlearn so much, go back to what you did when you first started, make 1 change try the car, make another change, try the car, soon as things are going in the right direction it all comes clear. Toughest lesson for me so far.......don't fight the truck. Good luck and enjoy!!!!
Kevin
Sorry i didnt answer your question but your question seemed so familiar to me. havent tried the truck with bars yet so dont want to guess.

In my opinion, you could definitely lighten your truck a bit and still notice good times. Obviously the type of surface you are driving on makes a big difference on weights. But, on my local hard packed clay track (with a bit of dust on the top), this is a typical weight setup (and how I have mine setup currently):
1/4 oz. underneath the servo horn or somewhere on the front bumper
1/4 oz. beside your receiver to counterbalance your heavier ESC
1/4 oz. in each rear triangle
2 oz. in the rear foam

Also, I have 2/3 of the foam in the rear and 1/3 of the foam in the front. If you went with this setup, you would have a total of 3 oz. of weight, versus the 5 oz. you are currently running. Like I said, this is obvious just a recommendation, and nearly everyone on here has some different configuration. I am just saying that the setup I explained works great for my 2WD FT truck and seems to be a fairly common setup at my local track. Give it a try and see what you think... I bet you will be surprised how well it still handles :nod:

Im having a strange issue. I think its my servo but here we go. If i twitch my steering really quickly or change direction from extreme left to extreme right my rx glitches. Almost like it looses signal for about a second. I plugged up another servo and no problem. However the was no load on the other servo so that could be an issue also. Anyone had or heard of any issues like that? My rx is brand new.

This happened to me once when I had my steering epa turned up to high. Double check it,worth a shot.

For outdoor tracks I don't use breaking a lot depending on the track or if I'm trying to pitch the rear around a tight corner, for my driving style I like to use the natural weight transfer to hit the corners. For the few indoor clay tracks I've been on I have used the breaks a bit to make some of the tight corners.

Depending on brand of servo, it could be a brown out. Install a glitch buster and it should stop. Savox is known for this issue I used a glitch buster when I used to run them and no issues lol

Brown out?

Dip in voltage from HV servos pulling too much power too quickly, causing a lack of power for the rest of the system temporarily until the system is recharged by the battery.

Is this a Savox or one of your Radio Post servos? Which radio?