Originally Posted by Leadfinger2011 (Post 10644628)

Whats up all!!
I put a gear diff in my kid's SC10 as the tuning flexibility wasnt a big deal to him and I like the idea of less maintenance than the ball diff. My problem, I've built it to the instructions using the black grease but I find that thing loosens up really quick, to the point that he loses diff action withing three race days. My ball diffs go about 5 race days. Is anyone else experiencing this? Is the black grease not the way to go? Any input you can lend is appreciated!!!

Kevin

Originally Posted by Leadfinger2011 (Post 10644628)

Whats up all!!
I put a gear diff in my kid's SC10 as the tuning flexibility wasnt a big deal to him and I like the idea of less maintenance than the ball diff. My problem, I've built it to the instructions using the black grease but I find that thing loosens up really quick, to the point that he loses diff action withing three race days. My ball diffs go about 5 race days. Is anyone else experiencing this? Is the black grease not the way to go? Any input you can lend is appreciated!!!

Kevin

Originally Posted by bds81175 (Post 10645496)

Use the black grease for the thrust balls and the diff lube for the diff balls. Make sure you break it in after you are done building it. You also might need a rebuild kit with the little T nut in it. Those do where out after time and the diff screw can loosen up. A loss diff that slips/chatters will tear itself apart in a heartbeat.

Originally Posted by kdub (Post 10641807)

Thanks for the compliment! Remember that when you install the rear aluminum hex adapters on a B4 or SC10, remove the blue washer and all outer axle shims. Only run the axle cross pin, and then slide the adapter over the pin and against the bearing. If your cross-pins are bent or mangled from pliers, install new pins before installing and brand hex adapters.

Originally Posted by drtdvl4 (Post 10645486)

What components would you replace with aluminum on an SC10 to improve performance? Not talking about adding bling.

Originally Posted by Cain (Post 10645951)

you could do the rear carriers like the FT T4.1 comes with. Suprised the FT version of the SC10 doesn't include the alloy carriers.

Originally Posted by drtdvl4 (Post 10645486)

What components would you replace with aluminum on an SC10 to improve performance? Not talking about adding bling.

Originally Posted by Krio (Post 10646031)

Clamping hexes, steering rack, front hinge pin brace, and, as Cain mentioned, the rear hubs are the only aluminum pieces I would consider performance/key durability bits.

Originally Posted by drtdvl4 (Post 10645997)

Yep, already have the aluminum AE -1* hubs. What else?

Originally Posted by budget man (Post 10639179)

Quick question guys. I will be installing a Mamba Max esc with 5700kv four pole motor. I'd like to be able to run 2 and 3 cell lipos safely. What size pinion should I use? Thanks.

Originally Posted by budget man (Post 10646287)

Update. I finished the install yesterday. OMG I used a 18t pinion and its retarded. Honestly its overkill. I have to ease into it on speed passes. I like that it doesn't lift up at speed like a slash. With a 3s the motor was Luke warm. I could probably gear up but trust me, its pointless. If anyone trys this setup, please find a huge parking lot or learn trigger control real fast. Thx for the advise.

Originally Posted by drtdvl4 (Post 10645486)

What components would you replace with aluminum on an SC10 to improve performance? Not talking about adding bling.

Originally Posted by Lake Ober (Post 10646360)

So, is anyone planning on picking up a set of the new Avid BB shock springs when they go on sale tonight?

http://www.avidrc.com/product/19/spr...T-springs.html
http://www.avidrc.com/product/19/spr...T-springs.html