Will the VTS slipper work on the 2wd SC10?

hello, I have a FT sc10 and wanted to convert the front to hexes , so i bought the assoiciated parts needed to do the conversion. The front axels come with clips i installed the bearing slid it throught the steering installed the second bearing and i have them pushed all the way in on both sides and i cant seem to get the room need to put the clip on , am i missing something? Do I need the clip or just shim it and install the axel pin and hex ? Thanks Rich

I don't use the clip and mine works fine.

The clip acts as a crush tube. If you don't install that you are putting a lot of unnecessary stress on the front bearings.

I am having a problem with my rear bearings, the 3/16 x 3/8th bearing in the hub carrier. I keep blowing them to bits...... I am running CVD axels, with Jconcept clamp hexs, has anyone had this problem before and know a fix?

I just put the AE Aluminum hub carrier in with the larger .187 bearing on the outside and blew out the 3/16th inside bearing today after an hour at the track, this must be the 8th time i have replaced one of these bearings.......

Thanks in advance

You do have the crush tube in between the bearings, right? If you don't you will go through bearings like they are going out of style. If you have the wrong crush tube (too short) it will do the same thing.

Yes I do have the crush tube in, previously I had the longer crush tube in with the plastic hub carriers and now with the aluminum hub carriers AE calls for a shorter crush tube, which i have installed part #7933, for the plastic hub carriers it was part #7377.

I have no doubt it is probably something i am doing wrong, but just what it is I have no clue........

Maybe, I know the MTK clutch basket would work (not sure if the stock gear cover would fit though) I run garodiscs in mine and it works great. I think a basket would be overkill for the sc10

The clip goes between the 2 bearings on the front, slide the axle thru the bearing then put the clip on, slide it into the hub, then the other bearing one shim and then the pin and hex. Hope that makes sense.

I don't think its anything you are doing wrong. My truck is brand new with one practice night and one race day on it, and I have gone through 2 rear outer hub bearings on mine. In my oppinion the rear bearings are too small. I really don't know what to do with mine either... Is anyone else having this issue?

[QUOTE=Mark K;10652690]I don't think its anything you are doing wrong. My truck is brand new with one practice night and one race day on it, and I have gone through 2 rear outer hub bearings on mine. In my oppinion the rear bearings are too small. I really don't know what to do with mine either... Is anyone else having this issue?[/QU


I have 4 races on my hex converted sc10 and no problems so far.

I suppose its possible that they have some crush tubes out of spec short. If you pull the rear tire off, you should be able to push and pull on the CVD where it comes through the hub and move the bearings (both) ever so slightly in the hub. If they don't move as a unit, the crush tube might be too short and you will put a longitudinal load on a bearing that wasn't designed to take it. I know this description sucks but hopefully you get the idea. If its too short, when you tighten the wheel nut down it will crush the bearings races in towards each other. If this is the case, you could try adding some axle shims in addition to the crush tube in between the two bearings until you get a solid coupling between the two bearings.

Anyone have any set up sheets for the SC10? I just got mine, and will be racing on an indoor clay track and an outside dirt track. My truck has an aluminum chassis conversion, Novak electronics, Savox steering servo... Will be running 17.5 Blinky.

Make certain your pins under the hex is not bent or warped from over tightening wheel nuts and also make sake that when wheel is on and wheel nut etc that you have at least some side to side play in the axle going through the bearings other wise the bearings are totally over stressed even before you drive the truck. if there is no side to side play you might have to many shims or a bent drive pin (regardless of what ever the instructions say about the shims yours could possibly be to tight. ;) also make sure to leave the bearings greased and not degrease and oil them like some people do.

Also do not reuse the smaller bearings from your old hubs after the conversion as even tho they may look ok they would have been stressed out to the max esp if the outer bearing crapped it self then the inner one would have had extreme side and twisting load put on it and that bearing will fail soon regardless

Check it out: http://www.teamassociated.com/setupsheets/SC10/

Aluminum chassis conversion? Must be an RCRD??