SAVOX! which is better? 1257 or 1258? I understand the 1258 has 30oz more torque, but is .01sec slower...HAHA! I'm sure that's not noticable, is it?

If it's going in an SC10 go for the 1258TG, the speed difference is negligible, they both are blazing fast! The extra power is nice to have and the drive train is sturdier in the 1258. :nod:

DARNIT!!!! I bought the 1257:flaming:....I'll see if I can swap it out at the LHS. Luckily I haven't opened it yet!
Thanks!

When I first converted my F.T. truck (CVD's) to hexes (JConcept aluminum), I had the outside bearings in the rear blow out after about 1 hour of drive time. I posted the issue on here, and CraigMBA told me to switch the rear hubs to ASC9730, switch the crush sleeve to ASC7933, and would need the outer bearing ASC7935 for the new hubs. So, I bought all the parts, installed em, and they've been working fine for over 3 months now. If your saying that you've installed all of those exact parts, then I would guess that your axle pins are bent. Hope you figure it out soon, I know those bearings can get pricey :(

The 1257 has more than enough power for a 2wd sct. The 1258 does have more power but it is power that will never really be used.

Wait, so your rear FT aluminum hubs had to be replaced with the plastic hubs? I've got the Avid RC clamp on rear hex on mine. Its been fine, and I have changed my CVA'a to MIP CVD's.

No, they are the same as the FT hubs but in plastic.

Make sure you change the crush sleeve, it's different.

No, I replaced my stock F.T. SC10 plastic hubs with stock plastic B4/B44 hubs. If I wanted to use aluminum B4/B44 hubs, I could have done that as well. They are Associated Factory Team part #9864, also Racers Edge makes a nice set as well. I decided to go with the plastic ones first, until I saw how it worked. Is there much of an advantage to switch to the aluminum hubs? I hear lots of people on here say that it is a performance upgrade.

Also, what do you think about the Avid clamp adapters Acill? I currently have stock AE plastic ones on the front and JConcept aluminum's on the rear, but of course the clamping screw on the one stripped out :cry: I hear the new Avid one's are not as easy to strip out, what do you think? Thanks!

The aluminum hubs will have less flex and should make the bearings last even longer. I seem to wear out cvds and outdrives, but hub bearings have outlasted every thing else.

I too run Avid hexes and Avid 3mm offset rims. So far I am impressed with both. The bolt on the hexes are perfect size and don't feel like they are going to strip out.
On your jconcepts hexes, you can replace the bolt with a 2mm x 6mm bolt. That's a perfect size.

Metal Idler Gear Results
 

Considering replacing the stock plastic with metal and would like to hear from those who already went with metal. Understand that the next weakest link in the drivetrain may break but a fellow racer said he has had no problems since going with metal. Also like to know which manufacturer makes a good one. Thanks

So, if you go with the 1257 on a 2wd SCT, which has 30oz less torque, as opposed to the 1258, wouldn't you have less draw on the system? More torque=more power usage...? Wouldn't this decrease the chances of a brown-out?
So, if i don't need the extra 30oz, and the 1257 has less overall draw from the system, why wouldn't you just go with the 1257?

Just a thought...Trying to justify my purchase...:smile:

These days, especially with digital servos, the torque is generated through gear reduction, not through simple motor power. More reduction to get more torque is typically why 'torque' servos are slightly slower than 'speed' servos. Internally, they use the same decoder board and motor/case assembly, but have different gear arrangements and tooth counts.

Either way, lock to lock, power draw is usually about the same when comparing sibling servos such as the 1257/1258.

Does anyone make a metal gear diff case?

I would like my RTR SC10 kit to be a good and reliable racer. Here are the mods I did:

Enduro SS rear tires on DE Racing Trinidad wheels
4° rear antisquat plate
gold springs in the front
battery tray trick to be able to put the lipo where I want

All the electronics have been replaced by what I had in my 2wd buggy:

speed passion sensored esc/ motor 9.5T
DX3R radio
S9451 servo

What are the mods I could add to go a step further? I mostly drive on loamy dirt tracks or astroturf

I've got the Robinson hardened steel idler gear in my son's SC10. Works fine but will wear out your top shaft gear a lot quicker. I used a Dremel and some polishing rouge before installing it but you can still see the extra wear on the top shaft gear.