Thanks for the info...

:lol::lol:

I disagree with this 'somewhat'. The 4x4 when a Proper setup sheet was made (the ryan/ryan setup): is a night and day better Truck than boxstock (without FT parts). BUT I do agree they've got a truck now with the FT. Outdoor 8th scale tracks, my AE looks awesome, but the Losi is faster. It really depends on your enviroment and if you want a truck that drives itself or one you put your soul into.

Haha, I would kind of have to agree with this just a little bit... especially on the loud part :nod: I was on the wall when I was going to buy my Factory Team kit, and didn't know whether I should go with the 2wd or the 4x4 version. I ended up deciding on the 2wd b/c it just seemed like a better option for my local track, and I'm so glad I did. The FT 2wd is a top contender for sure IMO!

Yeah, :p well you don't have these damn Team Kyosho drivers Saturating your track like we do here in Oregon. They all are required to drive SCT and ... ugh.

So has anyone had any success with the Gear Diff?

I setup this balldiff, using a guide sticky on the offroad forum, and It's grindy as Hell. I flopped the disks and did it myself and although the diff is "working" it still sounds like ass. I have new plates and balls, I just am at the point where I don't want to bother. I love tuning with the rear diff oil like my 4x4, but I know if you're anybody, you run a balldiff. As I followed the guide to the T, it slipped so much it wouldn't even go. so I tightened it up to a grindy sounding clusterF.

Should I just start over with new balls and plate? Or has anyone had any luck with a 5k Gear diff or so?

coyote


For bashing ?


A gear diff would be great .....

For racing ?

Stick with the ball's ...
Get the ceramic diff ones !!!!(3/32 )


Use the standard rings & thrust bearing, use Ae clear silicon on diff & black grease on thrust...

The ceramic's can be re used more than a few times & wear longer the carbide ....:cool:

Need tips on building ?

I run a ball diff, I completely break the diff in on the bench with a dremel. I cut a dog bone, stick it in the dremel and run it that way. I don't know if this is the way the sticky thread tells you to do it but I can get a couple of months out of a diff. I have never had one go bad, I just decide to rebuild it. I use all AE internals.

I run ball diffs and have never really had any problem with setting them up BUT the fast guy at our local track runs the gear diff and smokes everyone. I think it is a matter of opinion and driving style. I know everyone says that the pros run a ball diff so why wouldn't you, that is rediculous run whatever your comfortable with

I couldn't agree more, but it has it's limits.


WC, I won't do ceramic. but I ran the guide, (using the motor, not a dremel) and it did end up smoother but it still sounds like there's sand in it. I set up a Gear Diff with 10k and i'm going to run that for now. And practice tuning this balldiff on the side.

Thanks for the responses, Ryno, NJ, WC.

Coyote the carbide ball will cost you ...

They wear way faster and cost you performance in the long run ....


Personally been using the same set of ceramics balls(Ae ones) for 4 months now , not only have they out lasted a few set of rings , but they also gone though a couple set of out drives as well ...

Best life you can expect from carbide balls is a few weeks or 30 to 40 battery packs...;)


If your diff is gritty , most likely the balls are flat spotted, flip or replace rings & balls .


More than few ways to build , i never use a drill or whatever .

Just break in with my hand first by rubbing as I adjust , then install in car and run motor slow while holding one wheel .

Why on earth not?

I used to change my diff balls in my oval car every weekend (one race day). I switched to ceramic and I literally have been using the same diff balls and rings since 2005! When it feels gritty, simply take it apart, clean the old lube out, sand the rings reflat (where the groove disappears) and put it back together.

Seriously, I don't think the diff balls are any big deal, but the thrust balls are a ginormous big deal. Best $9.65 I ever spent on my SC10 - that's thrust balls and diff balls AND shipping.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ce-rctech.html

I do the in hand and hold a tire method. resulted in my problem. I know it's 'me' I just don't know where it's me.

Because I have 50 steel balls. Has nothing to do with taboo or money. soon as I run out, sure.

oil filled gear diffs are the best!!!!!!

I have always managed to run pretty good with a gear diff, won a few also, the only good thing about ball diff is they are lighter and that is it, other than that I believe thats about it, much rather tune with oil. much smoother and durable

Grrr.... Tranny housing is different. Gotta order a new one.

Gear Diff Trans - AE9826
ball diff Trans - AE9574

(I tried to fit it. Not happening.) Till then i'll try this last clean side of the plates I have before I start sanding. New balls, new side of plates, and i'm occasionally getting a grind pop or two. (complete clean out before I reinstalled left to drip dry.) but it does seem to be smoother. Now i'm going from hand to truck for motor break in.

CoyoteSlash, not to keep directing you away from a gear diff but you really can't let the ball diff slip at all. Once it slips a titch, it starts to get gritty feeling pretty quickly. If you hold each outdrive with a standard tip screwdriver through them and try to turn the diff gear you shouldn't be able to turn it if it is tight enough. Don't even try to put it back into the transmission until you get to that point.