By raising the ball studs it allows more travel in the suspension and more weight transfer which gives you more corner traction in and out

Raising or lowering the ballstuds has nothing to do with changing the amount of supension travel, that job is handled by the internal shock spacers. You could also argue that the external shock spacers could limit weight transfer if you ran enough spacers to limit the up travel enough to not allow for the right amount of squat or dive, but I don't think you could run that many spacers on an offroad shock, and still get the car around the track. Moving the ballstuds up or down changes the amount of leverage the weight of the car has over the suspension, and thus the amount of weight transfered. Feel free to not respond, as there is nothing that you can say to defend your previous post.

It's semantics.

You're both saying the same thing.


Raising the inner ball stud (lowering the roll center) "allows" or "causes" more suspension travel for a given cornering force. Essentially the lowering of the roll center gives the CG of the vehicle a longer moment arm in order to create body roll. The CG is further above the point around which the vehicle rolls (which is mechanically defined), therefor... with a given force, the roll will be greater. I don't think that Green SC was really saying that it increases "total available" suspension travel as much as he was saying that the lower roll center will "allow" the CG to use more of the available suspension travel at a given level of force.



Or that's how I read it... Which is correct. Then you corrected him with more correct information due to your misunderstanding of exactly what he was saying.


;)

Great way to introduce yourself to RCTECH. We bow down to your superior knowledge. :lol:

I am having a weird problem. I run blinky FT sc10 with rs and a 17.5 redline. Savox 1258 servo, airtronics radio mx-3x. It seems like I dont get full power from the speedo every time I accelerate. One corner it will pull like mad, then the next seems like im at lipo cutoff or current limiter(I have it shut off). It still tops out the same but its just not right. And it does not do it every lap. Maybe I am just misfeeling the response from the speedo/traction. Was running gens ace 30c 4000s now I am using Trakpower 60c 5600. Problem(if it is an actual problem) is still there. Anyone ever had this problem before?

I have the exact same setup. I'm spitballing here but, how are the connections between your esc and motor. I had, incorrectly, put shrink tube on the esc posts for a cleaner look. You shouldn't; it's the esc's only heat sink, but I didn't realize that. I had one of the wires come loose beneath it and developed an intermittent problem like you describe. Again, just throwing it out there...

Yeah I may just b your sensor wire, if that don't do it just recalibrate the esc and radio

I don't feel that this was an argument, I was mistaken in talking about travel regarding the ball placement, I was eluding to the amount of movement and still have camber. But to someone who obviously can not be wrong and must know everything and see's all as right and wrong your right nothing I can say will defend that post.....good job you are the winner

Orion R10
 

Anyone running the Orion R10 Race ESC. I was bored bidding on Ebay and bought one. I honestly didn't realize that you cant add timing or boost with it. I run mostly 17.5 and currently have Viper ESC's in all of my vehicles. I like the boost and timing so I don't know how much of a disadvantage I will be at with this ESC. I may drop a Mod motor in and use it in that class because I won't need timing and Boost with a 7.5 as much as I need it with a 17.5. Any suggestions...

Haha, I love it! :nod:

Hey fellow SC10er's, I have 2 questions and wanted to see what your opinions were, thanks:

1. Does anyone on here periodically replace the stock front and rear A-arms on your truck, even if they are not broken? I know it sounds like a dumb question but this is why I ask. I have been a basher for years but recently got into track racing with my Factory Team. Needless to say, my trucks taken a good bit of abuse the past month and a half, and the front arms/wheel hubs feel a bit loose and sloppy (more then they were when it was built). So, is there a possibility that the arms may be getting a bit bent from all of the abuse, or is this not possible as it is fairly rigid plastic? Surprisingly, nothing has broken on my truck yet, evidence that AE makes SOLID trucks :nod:

2. Are there any tires you guys find work well on indoor hard packed clay tracks, that are medium-ish grip and if not watered has a light dust on top? I currently and running JConcept Barcodes (gold) and they seem to work fairly decent. The most common tires at my track are the barcodes and suburbs, but I would like to experiment with another tire as well and am not sure which on to buy. Maybe the AKA Wishbones, or the HB Beams?

The truck is going to get some slop after running it. Replace them if your concerned about them. AE parts are pretty cheap.

You can try a set of J-Concepts Pressure Points. I really liked them on my truck when it got a little dusty.

I did not say anything about the outer. If you raise the rear camber link on the tower or inside only you increase rear traction. Its the same principle as raising the inner ball stud using washers.

I have actually been a member here since 2005, but there was a problem with my account, so I had to make a new one. I have also been racing r/c cars for 20+ years so I do really know what I am talking about.

1. It really depends on how much slop your talking about. I like to keep my cars pretty fresh, so shimming the play out of stuff is a good option when some slop starts to develop. This helps with all of your adjustments (camber, toe) to remain consistent. I will usually replace worn parts right before a big race. It adds to my confidence knowing that the stuff on my car going into the big race hasn't been tumbled a bunch, therefore hopefully preventing the dreaded "I was just driving down the strait away and my a-arm broke" situation.

2. I would try the HB Beams (if you can find a set). My local track is kinda the same conditions and they seem to work really well. Make sure to clean them between runs, and sauce them for that little extra bite. I would recommend the new Team Epic Bomb 1 SC foams for the Beams. The carcass profile on the HB SC tires is a little more square, and the Bomb 1 foams match that profile a bit better that pre-shaped closed cell foam. Bomb 1 foam is what we ran back before the R/C industry realized that people were still racing 1/10, and that they might want some closed cell foam too. The Bomb 1's will be slightly softer than a closed cell insert, and fill out the tire better. This should yield better traction. Also you can keep the Bomb 1 inserts a secret and have people wondering why your truck is so hooked up.

Thanks h8thatadmin and Brian L, I really appreciate your help! Great information :)