I lol'd. That bad, eh? Which ones did you try?

I ran TL orange front and TL pink rear last time out and it was okay. Jumped and landed a whole lot better, was better in the sweeper, but bite off of low speed 180 degree switchbacks was worse.

If you are trying to replace AE blue and green, it's too stiff.

Haven't tried any other springs than AE. I just felt like stirring the pot. My SC10 gets around the track just fine.

To me the only advantage would be if you were also running the 4x4 and wanted to use one set of backups for both instead of having two sets of backups. I suppose you could save on spring kits as well, but would need such a different setup it may not help that much.

I put em on and the eyelet has a good bit of play in it, will this effect the handling of the truck? What did they do to remove the slop?

I love my ae springs. truck is dialed with gold/grey.

question, i just picked up a practically new FTSC10 off a member here. This thing is cherry. BUT I ran into a problem.

This has the hex conversion done to it.

When I go to tighten the rear wheels it binds, plus I have to run a washer on the outside of the wheel to make sure it sits square otherwise it weeble wobbles something bad. WTF. So I have to snug the wheel so it'll spin freely but the wheel has a little too much play and I'm sure that will affect performance.

Is there something missing here that I'm not aware of?

i'm not sure which hex conversion it is, but it slips right over the pin that's it. It seems like its missing shims or something. :confused:
can someone help a brotha out? :smile:

Do one of two things. Convert it back to pin style, or buy JC aluminum hexes. Either way you need to make sure that the 2 shims are still there, otherwise it will wobble.

The only slip on hex conversion I have seen is the Pro-Line. Are there any shimms on the alxe? When I installed mine, I had to pull all but one shim out from the bone side and all from the wheel side so mine wouldnt bind. After I did that, I can crank like a freak on the wheel and it wont bind and there is absolutly no wobble. Also check to make sure the bearings are toasted.

iWell never assume...:lol:
I assumed the guy I bought it from put crush sleeve in the 0.5 deg hubs, he didn't... :weird:

I ran it by 20smoke and described my problem, he said check if there is a crush sleeve in the hub, there wasn't.

so looks like i'll be picking up a set of crush tubes. :nod: i threw some in there that were too big just to check and problem is gone.

The diff and trans is soooo butta smooth in this truck I think I'm gonna run it this weekend. Its so clean I'd hate to get it dirty LOL.

BTW the springs don't bind on this truck at all.. :eek:

see friends are always a phone call away,make sure you get the 44 tubes if they are alum not the stock sc10 ones

This seems to be an issue that some have run into yet not much has been discussed about it..

I ran into the same issue when doing the Rs plastic hex conversion to an sc10 with the original pin drive system....I found way to much play with even three axel shims??

The manual for the rs suggest just one axel shim with no blue spacer than pin and hex, while the original pin drive sc10's (oriiginal old sc10, newer version brushless sc10 that is not the Rs, and ft sc10) manuals suggest using 2 shims in front of the blue spacer and than pin for the pin drive system..Again, I tried three shims and still had the same loose wobbly play on the rear hex's.

These same axels and hub carriers with the pin drive setup had virtually no play while with the hex setup had way to much slop and movement, hence eliminating the carriers, axels, bearings, shims as the problem...

I noticed what seemed like the wheel nut wont fully compress on the wheel when using the hex setup per the Rs manual's instrutions, unless you use that blue spacer on the outside of the wheel..Here is a link to someone else whom documented the problem (check post # 9); http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...-help-plz.html

I tried this fix b/f finding that thread and it eliminated the slop entirely, but just didnt like the way it looked on the outside of the wheel..I tried the spacers on the inside of the axel like it is on an original pin drive setup and just put the hex on the pin and it works and looks normal now..Oddly enough, it would seem that the blue spacer is needed for us non Rs kits to make the hex's work properly..

Its wierd and even though the kits seem to all use the same parts, I think the Rs had longer threads on there axels sense they dont use or need the blue spacers..Or the hex's we have were molded slightly undersized, and some of us got that bad batch..

I have spoke to Don Natalie at Team Ae about this issue and aknowledged that the latter may be the issue..When I measured my hex's they were 2mm smaller than his??:weird::confused:He is sending me new hexes to see if that was the issue..When running the blue spacers everything is all good!:nod:

Ps. I checked and crush tubes, bearings, axels, hubs, ect, and all are correct and working order (damn near new)!

Thats only if your using the rpm hubs, or b44 .0, .5, 1.0, 1.5, degree hubs for the sc10..These would be the correct tubes: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNYW1&P=V

If your running the stock reg plastic o degree hubs, than you need the other original crush tubes; http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2983&P=M

that's what i said just not in so many words

thanks for the info, I knew it had to be a common problem, there was way too much slop there, i'll run the blue spacers along with some shims and the correct crush sleeve and hopefully *knock on wood* all will be fixed.

Got the new sc10 together with all my stuff on it, took it up n down the street. cant wait to throw it on the track again.

big bore springs
 

Does anyone know the part number for the kyosho big bore springs for the sc10 shocks. I think they r pink and red springs.