R/C Tech Forums - SC10 Thread

Setup question.....running on a med size indoor track w/ good traction in the morning but about 6 hrs later by the 3rd qual it starts drying out w/ a little dust on top and my truck goe from bein dialed in the morn to pretty loose in the afternoon. Pretty much runnin the jr mitch setup......played w tires and still too loose in the rear. Steering still really good just cant keep the rear planted late in the day...any thoughts on what setup changes to make?

You mentioned you played with tires, have you tried Holeshot 2.0's when it dries out? I use those when it goes dry, and sometimes Suburb's when it is a little damp (indoor clay/dirt mix track)

I use 4 deg toe as well. Hooks up pretty good!

Wild Cherry

10-31-2011 09:01 AM

nitro , have you tried sweeping the track ?

nitro0619

10-31-2011 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 9850712)

nitro , have you tried sweeping the track ?

Yea that does seem to help, but usually the majority of racers dont want it touched b4 the mains so it gets left alone......sucks so im stuck tryin to figure out how to deal w/ it. Fastest guys still seem to lay down good laps. I just see my laps are a little slower compared to earlier in day.

nitro0619

10-31-2011 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lansonfloyd (Post 9850701)

Havent tried the 2.0's yet but i will next weekend as they are the only tread i havent tried that i can think of. Megabites seem ok. Beams and suburbs work well untill the 3rd qual and they get loose

nitro0619

10-31-2011 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kc_nitro_rc (Post 9850669)

If the rear is wanting to get loose ONLY when getting back on the throttle add anti-squat.

Loosy goosy in general- try adding another washer at the shock tower on the rear camber link. Or- make the rear camber link longer using the outside hole instead of the middle hole at the wheel. Only problem with making the camber link longer is it might push bad in the morning. If so, try taking the washers out in the inside (at the shock tower).

What are you set at for rear toe? I like 3'.

What are the other short course trucks doing? Do they have the same problem?

i got 3* toe plate and 0.5 rear hubs. Ima also using the carbon mounts on the rear hubs for the outer camber links. It just seems loose comming into a corner hard and then on throttle comming out. Tried playin w slipper too. Helped a lil. Just sicks when ur dialed and fast untill the main lol

rcfiend

10-31-2011 10:36 AM

I'm just starting to play with the 2wd SC10 any suggestions on setup options for high grip clay/indoors track. I'm running at West Coast in Cali. Also this will be for 17.5 and maybe 13.5.
Also is anyone running the big bore shocks from the 4x4 or will they fit?

Lansonfloyd

10-31-2011 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcfiend (Post 9851058)

been on the associated site w/ the driver setup sheets? There are a few high bite clay setups to start with

rcfiend

10-31-2011 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lansonfloyd (Post 9851245)

been on the associated site w/ the driver setup sheets? There are a few high bite clay setups to start with

Thx. What about the 4x4 big bore shocks? Are they needed, will they fit?

nitro0619

10-31-2011 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcfiend (Post 9851257)

Thx. What about the 4x4 big bore shocks? Are they needed, will they fit?

The ft shocks are just fine... just need freshened up often

rcfiend

10-31-2011 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nitro0619 (Post 9851343)

The ft shocks are just fine... just need freshened up often

Thx. Nitro.

idrummerboy13

10-31-2011 12:59 PM

anybody running carbon parts on these things? i was thinking about a carbon top plate to calm down steering, and carbon arms to make it more responsive..

driver5150

10-31-2011 01:14 PM

Besides the factory team shocks, are there any other good shocks to run on the sc10?
Thanks

Lansonfloyd

10-31-2011 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by idrummerboy13 (Post 9851588)

anybody running carbon parts on these things? i was thinking about a carbon top plate to calm down steering, and carbon arms to make it more responsive..

IDK, I noticed that people break a lot of arms at the track so to avoid DNF I went RPM and haven't looked back. Not sure I'd be able to tell the difference of a flexy part vs. a very rigid part when it comes to arms. I have heard good things about the steering upgrade (STRC), that seems smart since there's quite a bit of play in the stock setup. What protective bumper/chassis protector (RPM/T-Bone/custom) did you decide to go with?

???E-Racer

10-31-2011 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 9849392)

???E-Racer

The Ae hex setup has less slop than the standard axle & bearing set-up.

A great addition to your ride, very happy with the Ae ...

He must have been using the proline one. I just hate wheel wobble.
Im glad the AE version doesnt have this problem.

kc_nitro_rc

10-31-2011 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nitro0619 (Post 9850996)

Move your rear camber link outside one more hole on the carbon mount (closer to the wheel.) Put 2 washers under the mount at the shock tower. Making your rear camber link longer & parallel should make it lazy & push for sure!

I like the 3* toe plate & 2* anti-squat. Using stock hubs so total rear toe stays at 3*.

Another cool setup is Ryan Maifields from the 2010 ROAR Nats.

As for your diff & slipper go to the sticky at the beginning of the electric off-road. It will get you dialed on those two items.

One final comment. You cannot drive (heavy throttle & hot entry on corners) the buggy the same when traction goes away like you are describing. Can you cut the torque/current back on your speedo? Could be this is all you need.

All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:52 PM.

Page 518 of 809

518

Show 40 post(s) from this thread on one page