Rear: For SC10/T4/B4
TLR5165 GREY 1.6
TLR5166 WHITE 1.8
TLR5167 YELLOW 2
TLR5168 PINK 2.3
TLR5169 RED 2.6
TLR5170 ORANGE 2.9
TLR5171 SILVER 3.4

Front: For SC10/T4
TLR5178 PINK 2.3
TLR5179 RED 2.5
TLR5180 ORANGE 2.9
TLR5181 SILVER 3.2
TLR5182 GREEN 3.5

I have a Turnigy 6000mah 60c that fits just fine. I just have to back out the wingnuts.

Thanks Lake Ober for the spring chart. Appreciate that!! :)

Looks like they are the same size then. 22 or 22T no difference.

oops

i can get it in there but the strap is bowed and the battery won't go back to the bulkhead it's about an inch forward if i have it back against the bulkhead it's too tall to get the strap under the bulkhead...

hope the makes sense!

Bob

Wow, that's not good.You might need to get a different battery to fit?:confused:

Or you could do what I did when I ran into that exact issue. Here is a picture of my fix.

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...0/DSCN1327.jpg

Now I can run my pack all the way back against the tower.

well that will work, thanks!

no even sure where i need to run the battery but it didn't look right for sure, will buy thinner batteries next time!

Bob

The last time I had my steering rack apart looking for the reason there was so much slop I too noticed that my metal sleeves were loose when inserted in their pockets. So, when I was re-assembleling I gave each sleeve a slight coating of shoe goo prior to inserting back in their locations. I let it dry overnight before installing back in the chassis and it was amazing how much less slop existed. Have run one night of racing and still no slop in that area.

Hmm.. I didn't think about doing this but it probably would help. What do you think guys... is this a good idea to try out?

You could try it and see. From what his experience was with it, sounds lime it worked OK. But for how long? It may be something you would have to redo every so often.

Has anyone tried out the MIP bypass shock kit? If so how do you like/unlike it? Thanks

If the surfaces are cleaned properly, there ain't nothing gonna get 'em back out again in any condition to re-use.

Shoe Gooing the block carrier bushings into the steering rack changes where wear occurs in the system.

It should be a one-time-only install/mod, but you have to pay attention to how you tighten the screws that hold the rack/servo saver to the steering rack. It's been a while since I was inside the steering system, but IIRC, the bushings keep you from overtightening the screws and binding the assembly, which means that the whole arm/bushing/screw remains at a fixed index and turns in the hole in the steering rack. Once you Goo the bushing in the rack, you can't tighten the screws like you would have, and the screws then turn in the bushing. That leads to the potential of the screws backing out of any compromised threads in the arm/servo saver because the assembly is no longer tensioned/torqued.

Perhaps a better 'fix' is to replace the worn steering rack.

I don't see to much shoe goo between the collar and steering block. The torque and pounding of the steering will wear the rubber out. It may last a while but I can't see it being permanent. Especially if people complain about the spring being too weak to handle the current setup.

I was going to test them out but I got to see the new big bores in action and now I'm going to wait.