one of the fast tire setups at the track
which is blitz tires in the back (stock compound)
stock sc10 tires up front
I have the optional cf battery bar so the battery is all the way back

where does this 4th hole get put, I've been reading around read about it, just not about the location
thanks I will be trying to get some practice in here soon, and will be trying new stuff but I needed a direction to head in thank you very much.

My truck usally can get me in the A-main but usally from qualiying earlier in the day, as the later races I start to get this traction roll as the traction picks up it creps up on me, hurting my last 4 mins of the main.

everyone at the track runs their battery in the back so I never tried anything with it, will try it. as well as trying your other recommendations, that you

Traction Roll
 

Best cure for traction roll is a lower ride height & extra negative camber for the rear tires....:tire:

Move the battery back, I run mine at 1.625" back. Don't use the 4 degree toe block. In my experience it causes handling issues. Use the three degree block with your .5 hubs. The dog bones should be just below level.

I'm running a 13.5 with this setup and I've got plenty of traction. Matter of fact I'm moving to an 8.5.

The forth hole goes just inside of the original three.

Wild Cherry is right. Increasing camber reduces traction which reduces traction roll. The sway bar does the same thing by the way. With the sway bar you can split side bite from forward bite on smooth tracks. You have to select the right springs and oil settings to really make this work well.

I'm really surprised that so many are running the battery in the back. Especially with the SC10 and FT battery strap. Increased weight in the rear will increase rear traction both forward bite and side bite resulting in heavy traction roll. I have never had my battery all the way back even on low traction surfaces. It sets the weight bias so much to the rear that it is very hard to drive.

Once you move the battery forward you can manage forward traction with biasing springs and oils front to back. It is a balance of steering and rear forward bite. If you have plenty of steering and want more forward bite you can soften the rear or stiffen the front. Vice versa if you need more steering. You are going to make some big changes so it will be hard to tell at first.

The key is that you need to reduce the side bite while retain forward bite and have enough steering to drive and jump straight and smooth. I will see I can create a set-up sheet for what I would run on carpet. Anyone else could provide this too.

You can try limiting the droop (downward suspension travel)if you think you have the right tire combo but tires are first on the list.
Too much droop allows the body to roll over too much.
Too much front bite will traction roll you big time.
I'd go to stiffer front springs and front tires with less grip too.

Of course there are a million little things to do for traction rolling but that's the big stuff.

Ask the onroad guys about traction rolling remedies if you get really stuck.

Keeping the battery all the way to the back affects how it jumps big time. It will want to keep the ass down and nose up. Moving the battery forward makes it jump the way it was intended.

If you have that much bite on your track go up in shock oil, run a rear sway bar and move the rear camber links as far out as you can. I guess you can add a 4th hole if your track is biting that much but damn you must have sugar water laid down or something LOL.

Our tracks here are loamy typically. Ya'll are spoiled with your hard packed blue groove tracks :lol:

I tried using more negitive in the back after seeing were the camber ended up when the truck leans for a turn, in order to have -1 degree in a turn I had to go to -5 setting, of course thats saying the truck leans all the way in a turn, I ended up with a really loose truck in the first min, then it traction roll would still creep up and bite me, I got the rear toe set at what should be -1.5 in the rear. I am still trying to figure out the carpet track and how the surface picks up traction over the race day.

I run on carpet, set front and rear camber at 3deg. Zero toe in front, battery pack is 310 grams ( IP 5600 )Weigh your batteries, manufacturers info is not always right and the back edge is just in front of the screw holes for the rtr battery hold down ( must use foams to keep it from moving & FT holdown), 35wt oil all around, blue front with 1/16" spacers and silver rear with 2 1/4" spacers, rear body mounts al the way up and front 3 to 4 holes from top, body rubs too hard on tires from body roll and bigger jumps, rear links outside, front links middle hole. If you have a heavier battery you can move it foward a little bit ( if u need more steering). Lighter needs to go back more. Pro-Line Caliber M3 are about the best on the rear and stock tires on the front if you dont have any tire rules. Some guys are saucing the tire ( just the rear). I TQ @ win 75% of the time with this set up..

we have to run any stock tire from any 2wd SC kit. We can and do sauce the tires. thats why the track changes so drastically.
I've tried to run without it but my lap times fall off there too. we change the track everytwo weeks some tracks are worse than others as far as traction roll. thanks for the help.

How often do the slipper pads need to be replaced? What do I look for to know they are worn out?

Slipper Pads
 

They glaze , shinny from slipping....



You can use a shape X-Knife and scape the glaze off both sides of the pad.


or



Replace with new pads when they start to get thin .....

How tight should my ball diff be?
 

First off....I've searched. Read all I can on adjusting a ball diff in my SC10.

My question is: Where should I start tuning the ball diff from? I've concluded from my studies, that I should assemble the diff, break it in, then....

At this point I'm going to try to tighten the adjustment down till it stops. Not cranking on it but with two fingers tight. Then back it off anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Then adjust my slipper accordily.

I've tried the holding the left tire and spur, then rotating the right side tire to feel the diff rotate, but it always feels to be grinding? Not a smooth roll. Am I going to tight?

I'm only asking because I'm missing corner speed like crazy. My truck dives in perfect then just slows to a standstill mid corner, while others rotate right through. I'm running the Scott Brown setup and its great everywhere except mid corner. I can only narrow it down to my lack of ability to adjust/tune my ball diff's tightness/looseness.

Any advice of help would be much appreciated

At the same time? Hold the spur only and it should feel smooth. When you tighten the diff all the way you should be able to feel when the spring bottoms out, from there back it off an 1/8th to 1/4 turn. 1/2 turn would be A LOT. IMO

Ohh :blush:

Thanks for the tips, I think I have a gameplan now.