Thanks 19_mustang_96,

I'll check on that.


Anthony

First, yes you can get the AE FT B4.1 blue rear hubs. The may be under the B44 too. You will need new larger bearings. This is a good thing since I have burned up more than one set of bearings with the original stock ones.

I am running 1 degree STRC hubs and a 3.0 degree hinge pin block for a total of 4.0 degrees of toe. The additional toe provides increased forward traction. I recently reduced this on a high bite track it I lost forward and side bite which really sucked.

I have 2.0 oz in front of the rear hinge pin block, 0.5 oz. between the block and the transmission (FT ballast), and 0.5 oz in the triangle near the receiver for a total of 3.0 oz of added weight. This has been huge for rear traction and balance. I typically run my battery in the middle and shift it fore and aft depending on the track. I messed up in the main at the TQ challenge yesterday cause I left the battery mid tray and inproved the rear traction and increase timing on my 8.5 all at the same time and was doing wheelies everywhere. I could have pushed the batter full forward to improve that.

[QUOTE=ShortCourseOnly;8870016]First, yes you can get the AE FT B4.1 blue rear hubs. The may be under the B44 too. You will need new larger bearings. This is a good thing since I have burned up more than one set of bearings with the original stock ones.

I am running 1 degree STRC hubs and a 3.0 degree hinge pin block for a total of 4.0 degrees of toe. The additional toe provides increased forward traction. I recently reduced this on a high bite track it I lost forward and side bite which really sucked.


those 1 degree hubs are nice if you run on carpet, I got them switched around so I get less rear toe got the 2.5 a arm on and 1 degree less= 1.5
had those on I still had to do something to keep from traction rolling, tho it's figrured out now. it does rotate pretty good thur sharp turns and have something for the sweepers too.

running 1 degree hubs and 3 degree block totals 5 degree!!

im runnnig it also its great!

:confused::weird::confused: How does 1+3=5? Must be a new form of math. :lol:

Depends if the hubs = 1 degree each or 1 degree total toe in.

I was under the impression that it = 1 degree total, I have been running both the Losi 1 and 2 degree hubs.
Can't imagine that the 2 degree hubs = 4 total.

The 1* is PER SIDE. Three degree Block and 1* hub gives you 4* total. For each side of the car. You are measuring the amount of toe in. Not adding everything together.

I have always been under the impression that when the hubs say 1 deg. they mean 1 degree per side. If they say .5 they are .5 per side. When you are figuring your toe you only deal with one side of the car to determine your setting.

Come on everyone. The Toe is per side. Noone measures toe as a total between them. A 3 degree toe block drives 3 degrees into each side. So I have 4 degrees per side with my 1 degree hubs.

Mostly use the 3.0 toe block & .0 for the hub..


If on really loose surfaces ?
Try a 3.5 block or the .5 hub ....:tire:

i always thought it was total for both sides, the toe on the front end isnt per side is it?? why would the toe on the rear be per side?? if you use your calipers to measure the toe in on the rear like you do the front, what do you come up with??

i always figured that .5 degree rear hubs and a 3.0 block equals 4 degrees of toe.........if measured with a set of calipers

but i could be wrong, thats just how i always figured it.

OK, I guess school's in and lesson taught.

So the rear toe is measured differently (one side at a time) than the front wheels (both wheels) toe in/out?

Front and rear are measured the same way. When it's listed that there is 2 deg. of toe on the front, it means 2 deg. per wheel, not 1+1=2. :nod:

Exaclty. If you look at any chassis set-up guides or even 1:1 cars the toe, camber, and caster are all measured per wheel.

hmm ok, got that settled :blush:

ehmmm is the swaybar set a good upgrade for outdoor clay tracks?