Fast enough to injure marshalls or break 1/10th buggies running practice laps at the same time...

Not as fast as it would with a $23 lipo.

under 30 mph with stock gearing.




On another note, im runnig a castle mmp with 1406 5700kv motor on 2s (over kill I know) but I keep cooking stock slipper pads...........Like within 3 laps on my local track. My track is medium bite, and im running the slipper (v1) 3.5 turns from flush. Im tired of paying 5 bucks every race for new pads. Would the high torque pads with the vented contacts and the v2 spring help this problem, or do I need to simply tighten the slipper more.

btw I set the slipper on the section of the track with the most traction, and it slips for about 1 foot.



Any help is appreciated

Justin

Hold the rear wheels down by hand and blimp the throttle hard.

The ft of the car should not rise off the table more than 1 in...



Clean your slipper pads with 440 sand paper, pads should last you many races...

Guys....I have been researching and reading for the last 2 weeks on which SCT 4x4 I want to get and I cant make my mind up between SCTE and SC10 4x4. I love my SC10 RS after I did some suspension tweaks it seems to be pretty good now. I have read about 50 pages on this thread and a lot of good advice. From what I have read many are happy with the MMP and RX8 ESC and the 3800 CC motor. I dont read many talking about the LRP stuff....any reason why not?

Has anyone else found that one of the screw holes in the top plate is loose? One of the screws under the bumper is constantly backing out. When I asked my friend about it, he said that his T4.1, B4.1, and SC10 all do that, and that he regularly has to tighten them and fill the holes with CA glue to keep them from backing out as fast.

Is there any way to permanently fix this?

I don't have a problem with this in either my B4.1 or SC10?

I'll slap a new one in there (cheap part) and see if it crops up again. It's been crazy taking the bumper off after every qualifier just to tighten that screw... I guess I have only noticed it happening constantly when running on really rough and blown-out tracks with really terrible car-breaker jumps (which, sadly, has been all I've seen for over a month).

Is everyone trimming the outside pieces off the rear bumper and just leaving the center section

I'm not. I just trim the mudflaps.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6021/...f48b1d49_b.jpg
DSC_9224.jpg by aldo3912, on Flickr

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6136/...c41f20fb_o.jpg
DSC_9225.jpg by aldo3912, on Flickr

Sounds like you stripped out the screw holes for the top plate .....


It happens when you take big head-on hits.....

I'm about to pick up a gear diff for my FT SC10 and am wondering what to run in it. Is there an oil equivalent to black grease? What would be best for a fairly loose, dusty track? If going with grease, should I pack the diff full or just lube the gears?

start with

3000w

I didn't trim the bumper, either, but removed the flaps. They would have been pulled off.

Obviously. But only one, the one on the right side of the car.

Except this car has only had about 7-8 race days and hasn't taken anything I'd describe as a severe head-on. Haven't broke any chassis parts on it yet. This didn't happen with an older SC10 that took a brutal beating from numerous crashes (and some broken front-end parts). It didn't make sense, so I asked. Of course, this one has been run over half those race days on tracks with large inconsistent jumps that periodically result in very bad landings, and all of the above cars have been run on the same tracks except the older SC10.

My B4 does this as well but it takes quite a while to back out. I like to use my wing as a shovel so its hard to tell whether its a design flaw or not. :D