The tracks I run are loosey goosey. I def need that much toe plus weight in the rear.

On my FTSC10 that will run on hard pack med-high traction, I'll be using prob just the 3.5 toe mount or 3 deg toe mount with 0.5 deg hubs.

I'm lovin all this toe and ball diff talk :D

I ran my FT at AMS Raceway in MI on the weekend for the first time with the ball diff. It's a fairly smooth clay track, but the I could definitely notice the ball diff workin it's magic as my truck seemed more consistent around the corners and squaring up to the jumps. Thru qualifying my average time was close to a second faster than with the gear diff. Overall I'm definitely pleased!

I'm running a 4* toe block, thinking of going to a 3* or 3.5* block since I'm not having any forward traction issues and hoping it'd improve my corner speed even more.

I am planning to change too once Washtenaw is over. I have a total of 4.5* now and will switch to the 2.5* block with 1* hubs for Dirtburners and AMS. I expect that this will help straight line stability and cornering too.

I have only run a ball diff so I cannot provide any feedback on the gear diff. Will the ball diff handle an 8.5t motor?

It should.

Whats the gearing for a 17.5???:confused: I am trying to figure out how the truck just dies off at 4.5mins and looses all punch and speed. Running GTB and 17.5SS with a TP 5000mah 40C battery. All of which have had 2 years of full racing on them, the truck is awesome but I am getting my rear handed to me by the guys running timing advancement and 65C batteries...

I've run a GTB with a DUO2 17.5 and Team Checkpoint 5k 40C pack geared
75/28. At that it comes off around 140-145 deg. If your drop off is real bad your 2 year old motor and batt. might be suspect.

Hey guys, how's it going?

I am having a problem with the rear end being too loose. I am running the outer hold on the hub and the inner hold on the tower for the rear camber link. I have ran 3-4 degrees rear toe with -2 camber. I have the diff and slipper pretty tight. I am looking for some changes to the truck that will help out.

The rear end wants to come around on power and once it starts there is no stopping it.

I have tried moving the battery all the way back. I have went with a lighter oil in the rear shocks. I am running 35/30 oil with red/ gray springs. in the stock locations with stock pistons.

I am running the Tekin RS Pro/ 17.5 redline combo boosted with 28/75 gearing.

Thanks for the help.

Try going to the green rear springs. Leave everything else alone.

Without knowing your track composition i can tell ya what works for me.

Rear
Springs: Green
Oil: 35wt
4.0 degree in rear end
-1.0 to -2.0 camber
#2 piston

Front
Springs: Gold
Oil: 35wt
0 camber
#2 piston

Slipper: 180 degree from tight
Ball diff: 90 degree from tight

Batt location all the way back leaving room for the additional weight.

3oz of weight behind the batt.
1/2 of weight next to the receiver

I'm running the Castle SCT Combo with 20% drag brake

Track conditions: Med to low traction Clay, with smooth to dusty conditions.

It's a bit of a deviation of the Ryan Maifield setup on 07/18/2010.

I had the same problem. I would run the slipper a little loose so it slips some.

You are running almost the same set-up that I am. There are a few factors that we need to understand more. They are:

1) Tires: What tires are you using on what track surface? I am using Green Barcodes on a medium traction track that is loose at times.

2) Shock positions. The rear shocks should be laid down so far inside on the top for sure to improve side bit. I have mine on the inside on the bottom. I just drilled another hole in the tower to move the top inside even more. This helped me. Oh. switch to the green springs for sure. Front shocks should be on the center hole on top and outside on the arm.

3) Weights. If you have not added weight it is time. Even for the Stock 17.5 class adding 3 oz. of weigh in front of the shock tower will help both rear traction and stability. I have my battery mostly to the rear with about an inch of foam block between the battery and the shock tower above my weights.

Good luck

Thanks for all the info guys!!!

Outdoors I am running Green Subcultures, Green DD's, Green Goosebumps and I use Green bar codes sanded down to slicks for indoor.

I am running on outdoor orange clay hard packed tracks with loose to medium traction. I run indoor as well but I am more interested in tightening the truck up outdoor which is where it is a real problem.

I do not have any weight in the truck yet. So I need 3 oz in front and rear?

In the rear. The Pros position it in the rear of the battery tray. I have mine split between the rear battery tray, receiver side to offset the Speedo, and the new FT Ballast weight between the rear toe block and transmission. I think I have about 2.25 oz. so I could even add more.

Again, my battery is

Man if that diff isnt super smooth and spin freely, its going to step out no matter what you do, just like a spool or locker in a real car. I fought that problem until I bought a new ball diff and took my time building it.

I agree with the ball diff setting. It really shouldn't be "Tight".

I just tried the "Fourth" hole on the rear upper shock mount and it was fantastic for improving side bite.

I now need to move some weight forward for improving steering.