no it is a kit

Its a kit

Thanks.:) I am wanting to trade a slash P.E.Roller for a FTsc10 roller..:nod:

I have a set of split six rear slash 4x4 wheels and tires,I see driven products makes 12mm delrin wheel hexes to run these on the SC10.will this change the off set? will the stock sc10 body rub tires? and has anyone tried these adapters? Thanks,:)

I have changed over to AKA 1/8 adapters and DE Racing 17mm short course wheels. Great set up! The wheels can be rotated now and the weight it added to the truck over the stock whees is 20 grams (average 5 grams per wheel set up). Pretty good sacrifice for the convenience. It did seem to make the truck 1/8 wider front and rear making the truck at ROAR maxim legal limit. I will get some track testing in but I do not think it will be a bad thing.

can anyone tell me if the new sc10 team edition comes with a chassis brace up front under the servo?

Nope, but I know where you can still get one. :sneaky:

thanks but i got one. our rules for racing state the truck can only be in the form that it comes in as a kit/rtr so no hop ups.

So I have an inquiry with my brand new FT SC10. Got the kit built last night, and I have a concern over the new V2 shocks. They build just fine, but overall... man are they horrible.

The fronts, are just fine, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to keep the springs on the rears, from rubbing on the shock body. It looks like the spring cups, the shock collars, and the springs themselves, are a couple milimeteres too skinny for the shock body. They sound and operate like GARBAGE with the spring clinking, clanking, and catching as you compress the shock.

Ideas? :weird:

I had this same problem with the grey springs. The shocks are good just the grey springs stink. The B44 spring cups help some because they hold the bottom of the spring better. Also you can bend the end of the spring some to help the spring stand straight up (on the bench) better.

Thanks for the tips... I see that RPM makes a srping cup for AE, that look far better as well. I think ill give those a try. And ill also try tweaking the spring on a flat suface as well... hopefully those put together will work as right now, they just don't work right.

If they are real bad I sometimes touch them to the side of a bench grinder wheel. This will flatten out the last coil some and help them not bend over so much.

***Always wear safety goggles! If you get to greedy when doing this they can go flying off the grinder wheel.

You don't need the chassis brace for the newer chassis, they got that problem sorted out quite some time ago.
The material is stronger and there is extra bracing material there now.

My V2 rear shocks in my 10T4.1 kit are doing the exact same thing...Fronts are perfectly fine.

...BUT, may want to look around, it's still vulnerable right there.
Seen em go, may be why others are extending the rearend instead of the front.