I put som3 epoxi on the holes around the the slot for the pin, it should
hold the pin in place, but 2010, lipos and brushless power, the hex is
better than a flat driver.:tire:

No I had one of the early SC10s, I had a set of the updated wheels on my 2nd SC10, I know the difference. I run a VXL, Mamba Max, on 2S, so they see decent power.

I really can't believe no one has made some hex adapters yet for the SC10.

If I had access to a machine shop, I'd make some myself. You just need a 17mm or 12mm hex, proper center diameter to clear the axle, proper offset race to replace the current plate, then drill a hole aligned to the hole for the pin in the axle. Make a long bunt screw with a milled end to go through the pin hole. Hell, it doesn't even need to be a bunt screw. Just a pin that goes all the way through. It would be held in place by the wheel once attached, like on 1/8th scale.

These would sell like hot cakes to peasants on a cold morning....

ben

I have wasted a set of rear wheels on this poor pin / wheel design.

I also have talked to some Associated Drivers - some can be a pretty arrogant and some are actually very helpful - that's pretty standard with middle of the road companies.

The good thing today - is there are plenty of high quality manufactures to choose from that have a stronger customer image philosophy.

I want to be clear, I am not trying to dis-respect Associated - I am only relaying my experience with their company and products as honestly as possible, what they choose to do with this type of information is their choice, I hope they will use it to make a better product in the future. I have owned 4 different RC manufacturers, Associated, Losi, Tamiya and Yokomo. Unfortunately, Associated has been the worst in my experience when it comes to quality and overall design of their products - in their defense they are also in most cases the least expensive.

I do like the SC10, but the wheel / pin design - I do not understand - this isn't the 1980's. :confused:

I have one wheel that stripped. I ended up using JB Weld to form a new slot. So far it is holding up, only one or two days at the track. I've been careful to install correctly, but I think the nut came loose. I now use loc washers for extra security.

But, I've never heard of anyone sending a wheel back to Associated for replacement. My new HPI Vorza had one stock wheel with no foam insert. One email to them and I have an RMA to have it replaced.

I have to say, if I raced and invested a lot of money like the posters above, I'd be changing companies too. I like my SC10, but really don't like the crappy wheels and tires...

ben

I called Team Associated about stripped wheels. They sent me new rims with 2day shipping.

i think the major cause is the nylon lock nuts came loose?

What if:
1. What a tension washer in bewtween the wheel and the lock nut?
2. Put double nylon lock nuts? Lock up one and secure the base with another one on top?

Any one tried this before? Is there any problem?

Thanks

See that right there screams that they know of the problem. But the guy I talked to pretended he knew nothing and pretty much told me to my face that I am an idiot.

That's what pissed me off. I have a total of 6 wheels stripped that I can remember. I'm sure there were a couple more too.

And nobody should have to go buy epoxy or jb weld to modify a brand new part so it doesn't fail. Not to mention I don't have time to let that stuff dry as I buy rims and mount them at the track and use them that same day.

For now I am keeping the sc10 and going to see how close I an get to the same offset using hexes. Then I can use the same wheels and tires from my 4wd SC.

after my first one came off because of a loose nut, that is also an associated part, I use blue thred locker everytime I install my rear wheels. I also used piano wire that is the full length of the slot in the wheel. That definitly worked good but I run mod SC and with a 6.5 motor it just isn't a match to those poorly designed wheels. Why wouldn't it just be solid? Duh! Fill it with epoxy? How about they do it right and fill it with plastic??

The lock washer may not work beause it would eventually eat up the rim. But I have not tried this method before. So I am not certain on that.

The double nut idea would probably work but then you would need longer threads on the axle and then the axle and nut would pertrude from the rim and get caught on stuff and Possibly bend an axle or even worse sheer off the whole rear arm and hub from the truck.

I further modify the tension washer method by adding a thin washer between it and the wheel from protecting it for chewing up... Hope this will work out fine.

When i talked to them they said they where working on a new design.............. ???

I've run Associated cars since the release of the very first RC10. Every
thing I've raced has had the wheeel pins on them. I've never striped a
wheel ever, not even on my AE gas trucks. I've always used new wheel
nuts every second wheel change until Losi came out with their aluminum
locking wheel nuts, I've run the Losi wheel nuts since they made them.
Losi wheel nuts last dozens of wheel changes before they don't lock
any more.

Loctite does not work unless you spend the time to put it in the nut
threads very carefully with a tooth pick and very little of it. Then you
must let it dry over night. If you put loctite on the axle it will build up
at the back of the nut and get on the plastic wheel. Loctite eats
plastic so it will cause the wheel pin to strip the wheel out because of
the fact the plastic is now soft from the Loctite...

As for the Factory drivers having bad attitudes, you need to call AE and
tell them who treated you like crap. They will not stand for that kind of
attitude from their drivers at race tracks.. They will be removed from the
team in a hurry..

I've raced thousands of races with AE wheel pins with no failures because
I was lucky enough to see others have this problem before I got my RC10
and figured out why they were having this problem so I headed mine off
from watching others mistakes.. There really is not a problem anymore
since the Losi aluminum locking wheel nut came out back in the late 80's.

Try the Losi wheel nuts after you call AE to report the bad attitude of
their driver and have them send you all your new wheels you need to
have replaced..and NEVER" NEVER" use Loctite near plastic anything.
Read the loctite instructions and note the warning about plastic melting
if Loctite touchs plastic..

Good Luck and enjoy your racing with your new Losi aluminnum wheel
nuts and no more wheel problems... :nod:

Thanks


The locktite does work very wellthough. I use it multiple times a night for racing and when I remove them it's a biatch and there is dried residue left on the axle.

I'll definitly try some other nuts but the hexs are bout to go on.

As far as the call about the driver. I don't really want to stir up drama. That's why I will not mention any names. Just thought that he very poorly represented the company that supports him.

Kinda like me. If the company I spend all my hard earned money on doesn't support me then, later!

But one of their respectable reps has contacted me to sort out my issue. Like the other guy should have done to begin with.

the wheel matt is talking about did not just strip out the inside. The wheel nut somehow pressed itself into the outside of the rim, and the inside did strip, but only stripped very shallowly into the cross.

i should have taken a picture of it today when I was over there, it is hard to explain

but between the two of us we have had 7-8 stripped wheels

I did the same thing with loctite, my axles threads are coated in died loctite, actually works good, never spun a nut off. On my front wheels I use plastic nuts...