Mine didn't come with two spurs. Only the one installed.

I'm using brushless now on my RTR, what gearing should I be using. I does seem as though I'm missing out on the power compared to others on the track. It is a 4700Kv motor.

ben

3 sets of shocks that I have verified work and do a perfect job are the HPI Blitz stock shocks, the blitz aluminum shocks, and the losi xxx-t (any version) shock. I'd say the best deal is on the blitz stock shocks, as long as you have the shock collars which typically come w/ them you're all set. The stock blitz shocks do have a rubber bumper (gromet) installed on them that you will need to shorten or cut off totally in order to have the correct travel, but other than that you can pretty much just drop those bad boys on. I even enjoy drving w/ the stock setup, at least on the indoor off-road track.

Just a quick run down on what is worth getting iMO -obviously run the best tire allowed at your track for your class indoors the stock sc10 tires rock, outdoors the stock blitz tires are the best by far, and if your track allows any SC tire the caliber or the goosebumps at most tracks I've been to are the best.

1)RPM front bumper system
2)RPM front a-arm setup
3)Blitz Shocks (all around)
4)1 and 2 degree rear hubs for dirt tracks (I use the losi xxx as they are cheaper than aluminum ones) *stockers are great on high traction tracks iMO
5)Lunsford turnbuckles (RPM ends) *cheap off ebay stores


That is really it iMO, the ball diff doesn't help at all iMO just run some ~3k diff fluid when inside and use black grease outside in the stock diff. The 30 degree carriers don't make a lick of difference iMO. No other upgrades really help or are worth the money iMO. The stock dogbones work fine as long as you have the gromets in both ends.. but the outter axles will wear over time if you are running mod motors (10.5 or faster). The rear sway bars don't make enough difference to matter (didn't increase my lap times). The battery works best iMO dead center when inside, slight back when on loose dirt (nothing to buy for this). Again lots of other hop ups out there, but none seem to increase lap times.... the RPM stuff doesn't increase lap times, it just doesnt ever break :) So no DNF's! Same w/ the lunsfords, expectially on the front the stockers bend pretty easy if you run on a big 1/8 scale track and/or are tough on the truck.

my 2c

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...h/IMG_1070.jpg

EDIT: Just so it's on one post

losa9808 2 degree hub ~$6
losa9807 1 degree hub ~$6
losa2164 hinge pin (must use) ~$3 *more durable than stock as a bonus w/ this
losa6100 e-clips ~$2

Are these a direct fit? Could you provide a part number so I can be sure to get the correct ones?

They do fit right on.. but you need to drill out the arms just a touch w/ a 1/8 dill bit so you can use the losi hinge. Then just drill the stock hubs out while you are at it and they will still work if you happen to be racing in doors or on something w/ really high traction.

losa9808 2 degree ~$6
losa9807 1 degree ~$6
losa2164 hinge pin (must use) ~$3 *more durable than stock as a bonus w/ this
losa6100 e-clips ~$2

I forgot to mention I run the RPM rear arms, is it still the same process?

Don't know.. do the RPM arms use the stock hinge or did you have to swap out? I've always just run the rear arms.. never had a single one break (knock on wood).

Thinking about it they use the stock hinge pins, although they are captured differently, so I believe with a bit of thought and careful planning I could make the Losi hubs work.

Thankyou for your help.

I think a 4700kv is about a 8.5 turn....if so start with 87x19 for gearing.

I believe the unassembled kit version is the only one that comes with 2 spur gears.

Hey, thanks for all the info! One question: what kind of surface is the track you race on? Wet/Dry. Smooth/Rough/Blown Out. Indoor/Outdoor. Just so we know where you're coming from when you say that a ball diff and rear anti-sway bar didn't make a difference in your lap times.

Thanks for the part numbers!

I do most of my short course racing during the winter on a carpet indoor off-road course (diff w/ 3k fluid and stock tires w/ some grip compound). For summer last year (some this year) I was on a pretty loomy course made specific for short course racing, but this year I will be doing more racing on a large 1:8 scale course (the RPM upgrades will be nice here) that has pretty good traction normally. The RPM parts are even nice indoors as it gets pretty rough at times with some mains peaking at 8 drivers on a pretty tight course. Get bumped just right and your pushed right off the track or into the walls etc. With the ball diff (I use the MIP) it's ok but no better lap times than I get w/ the stock diff with grease in it for outdoors and for inside I didn't like it at all.

The best thing you can do iMO is stay with a 13.5 motor and don't let ther power get to you.. keeps for great lap times.. I had a 10.5 and actually had lower lap times on ALL of the tracks I run. The 10 would just spin out too easily in corners and even on the straight I often ran into issues getting up to speed.. granted this was pre- caliber tires :) and most tracks have a 13.5 2s lipo limit anyway.. so it's a pretty sound choice.

The rear RPM arms use the stock hinge pin from the SC10, the fronts are the only one that require a new pin.

And the kit comes with two spurs. 75 and 87...

Okay, good to know. I'm gonig to start with 3K diff fluid first before I try the T4 transmission setup and see how I like it. Coming from racing Slash right when they started (took last year off from R/C) I have pretty low expectations for the SC10 ;) .

Anti-sway bar question: it wasn't helpful to you on a carpet track? Did you just not see enough of an improvement when you had it on, or was it actually detrimental to your lap times?

Personal preference on the sway bars.... Everyone was running online, then at the track no one had them. I didn't see any major difference where I run (indoor clay), I had to run them to see. My times where about the same but I am average at best. Nice to have since and they are cheap, but I didn't need them.

Maybe if you wanted for some reason to run super super light oils in the rear I guess it would be helpful to have the sways, but running as I do and how Im setup it didn't help/hurt my lap times.. if it doesn't help in my book its not a worthy cost :) Maybe for someone it will make a difference, just not here..

hey guys
i am looking at getting a sc10. is there any difference between the rtr truck and the kit only truck? i plan to put a mild brushless setup in it,what are the recommended hopups to accomodate b/l systems? have there been any changes from the first model sc10 to the latest?