No real differences between the kit and the RTR other than the electronics.

They say there is an upgraded kit...meaning that they beefed up the weak spots on them. If you are going brushless, I would just get the kit & save a couple of bucks. The only thing I did to make it race worthy is....

RPM Front A arms
Chassiss Brace(your choice,Ive seen 2 break in 8 months)
CVDS
Losi rear toe hub conversion(more rear traction)
Alum. motor plate(cause of the heat)
30 degree caster blocks(takes out the push on high speed exiting)
Hexxes on the rear axles(Ae rims SUCK...stripped out 2 sets)

I run a sway bar on the rear(I like it) with M3 Calibers all around. O yea, hexxes of a TC3,4,5 will work & Slash rear rims(J Concept rims all around). I still run the stock diff,I tried a ball diff & it didnt seem to have as good of forward bite?

After all that the truck is pretty much a Tank...& I just put on captured ball links in the rear cause when the ball cups get a little wore out they will pop off & cost ya the race...& a Tekin Rs with a 17.5... That pretty much it.

How much grease should you put in the diff? I just put a light amount in the gear meshes, but now I'm wondering if I should have packed the whole diff. My truck seems looser than the others with the same setup.

I packed mine pretty good(black grease)...maybe 3/4 full. Did you double shim the diff out drives inside the diff case?...if not it will start clicking after some use & strip

Huge disapointment to team associated after I spun the rear rim in my a-main At the opening round of the JBRL series and I approached one of the team drivers who I was told Is the person to talk to. He basically accused me that I don't know how to install a wheel on my truck and that it was all my fault the wheel spun and almost melted right off. Told me too bad. I then told him I could bring him a whole bag full of those POS rims that have done the same. Still looked at me like I was retarded and don't know what I am doing. I won't drop a name but all I know is that I see a for sale thread coming soon and a call into HPI for a truck that the company actually supports and backs.

Sorry that just really bothered me about AE as they know it's a problem and pretended like it was all my fault. BS

Yea stripped the wheel at the roll pin.

What really pissed me off is that he said I obviously didn't put a roll pin in.

Well if he was as smart as he made himself out to be then he would have the brains to know that you can't get a nyloc nut on an axle without the roll pin and actually get it tight. Once you get to the nyloc part it would have just spun the whole axle and dogbone and would not get tight. I mean I build motocross bikes fo a living. I think I know how to wrench on stuff after 15 years.

I'm over it now. I've probably wasted $100 in tires and rims from this. Never said anything to AE before and now that I do I get dissed like that. Not in my book. No way.

Anyone looking for a dialed sc10 can contact me. I will be selling this when the new blitz comes out. I refuse to continue to support a companythat doesn't support the people who keepthem employed.

I havent stripped one since i changed wheel nuts.

Yeah after stripping 2 sets of rims(new & old) I put on some hexxes & run the rear slash J Concept rims...their customer service isnt what it use to be. I guess they'll figure it out when their sales are down & wondering why. :lol:

I did the same here. Now i just break roll pins.

check your pm matt

I have been an AE fan for 20+ years and have only one complaint and that is the wimpy rear axles & pins. This crap has been the same for 20+ years as well, time to update it AE. Brushless power & lipos need better drivelines to handle the increased load, those 3/16" axles & 1/16" pins are not reliable & require to much maintenance. This is a bigger problem, I think, than the front end issues but gets no response or upgrade from AE like the chassis did. The SC10 should of had hexes from the start IMHO. Thank you, I'm done. :)

I'm still running my original early release SC10 rear wheels. Still haven't had an issue w/ them. Just make sure they are locked onto the drive pin and tighten the wheel nut down snugly.

That said, I wish Associated would switch over to a 12mm hex just for the convenience of not having to buy different wheels for the Associated.

You were lucky enough to get one of the newer design wheels then.. the first roll out of rtrs and kits had wheels with a very poor design and it wasn't a question of if it would strip, just when would it strip... since ae has updated the design and they hold up pretty well from what I've seen, as good as any ae wheel.

I'm with Crawler... I have the original SC10 wheel, used and they never stripped. Was using a MM 5700 for awhile before switching to 8.5T. Not saying they don't but not everyone has had an issue with them. Sometimes they can be a bitch to get seated right but check them after each run to make sure the nut has not backed off they will last longer. And I do have the older versions...

I guess it would depend a lot on how hard you push your truck... with my 17.5 I doubt I'd bend through a well seated wheel, but with the 10t I had on it before it wasn't an issue, well seated or not it would tear through the weak thin plastic around where the pins would rest, that is unless you use some filler in the gaps. The plastic would just bend over and eventially give out, once it gives way it's only a matter of a few laps until it strips right through. Again the newer design took this into consideration and the gaps are prefilled so this doesn't happen.

Thanks Josh. See you Wed.

I'll post a pic of this wheel. Not your average strip out. It actually stripped out from the outside by the nut.

I think I now have spoken with someone at AE who actually cares. He Should be taking care of me now.

Probably still going to go to the hex like mentioned.