Yeah I could not use Losi wheels either. Going to wait until the "right" parts are out before making the swap. :cool:

front and rear arms level
50wt oil frt with #2
35 rear with # 1's
gold frt and green rear springs
I run 1/2 oz of weight on the servo with stock front tires. rear stocks work fine but wear quikly. hpi blitze compuod D will work as good and last alot longer.
if ur running a gear diff, 7-10k diff oil
toe slightly out, camber 1* in frt and rear

Go on associated website and look up team set ups. Ryan has a really good set up that I have been using.

Which Ryan?

Im running the proline set up and really like the options it give you. On another note how much down travel do you guys have with the shock removed. I am rebuilding my FT and noticed that there is a ton more down travel in the rear than there is in the front. Limiting the shocks almost doesn't matter in the front. Anybody running any other type of ballcup to help with this.

:lol: Good thing they did not hire Ryan Lutz to drive for them too. That would be just too confusing. :lol:

Cavalier!

What's everybody run for rear toe?

on my sc10 I use the FTSC10 3.5 to mount plus 0.5 deg hubs, seem to work good for loamy conditions , definitely corners great. This truck runs outdoor in loose bumpy clay.

on my ftsc10 I just have the 3.5 toe mount for now. i think I want to do the same setup or maybe go to 3 with .5 deg hubs. This truck will be run on smooth hard packed clay indoor.

I think 4 total deg. is too much I run 3.5 and zero hubs but I'm gonna try 3.0 with .5 hubs next week.

im rebuilding my ball diff in my sc10. how do i know that I havent over tightened it?

I am running 3.5 deg hinge pin block with 1 deg hubs without any problems. I have stable straight speed and great forward bite. I am working through tuning to get more side bite for our medium to loose traction track.

I guess I should try going back to 0 deg hubs to see it this makes a difference.

I generally go by feel. If the resistance to rotation is too stiff then I loose the screw. Some say you should tighten all the way and then loose 1/4 turn. Always adjust your slipper to slip before the diff.

Not saying don't try up to or more than 4 deg. I've just never had a stituation where I thought that much toe would help vs. other set-up changes.

Understood.

My Winter series track is pretty loose most of the time and I have found that more toe has helped. Some have tried even more with degraded performance.

I did use the standard 2.5 toe block with the 1 Deg hubs outdoors with good success. As I understand it you need less toe as your traction improves. So a high bite track should not need more than 3 deg total. What I also understand is that if you stay with the high toe it will reduce you straight line speed. You could always push through this with more power in a Mod class I think.

If you look through the various set-up sheets the Pros vary from 3 degress to 4.5 degrees.

1/4 is too far , 1/8 of a turn or about 5sec on a clock ...