I ran blues springs all around sometimes gold in the rear. I added an extra degree of anti-squat. I ran the Proline M3's with AKA inserts. On the towers up front was middle hole and inside on arm. On the rear was middle on tower and inside on arm. I liked the truck to jump better. Also get rid of the GT2 front spindles and go with standard trailing arms and add the 30 degree castors. For the ballstuds add 3 washers. For battery placement I tryed everywhere forward, all the way back. Truck seemed to work good with battery in the center of the chassis. Hope this helps I plenty more.:nod:

A heavier spring will take steering away. But to soft will add more body roll and weight transfer to fast. Is ur back end getting loose. I found out that going to soft a rear spring and moving battery to far will cause a pendulum affect.

BUGGYKING you said that you put 3 washers on the ball studs, which ball studs do you do this to???? sorry if this is a dumb Q?

Pretty sure he's referring to the ball studs that the upper suspension linkage is attached to. He raised his roll center.

yes the ones for the camber link to raise my roll center. When u raise the ballstud it will make truck more stable. If you lower them it makes it more responsive.

Proud new owner
 

Just purchased a new RTR from the for sale section:)

I've read a lot of this thread, but not the whole thing. I'm sure my answer is in here somewhere. Before I run it, is there anything I should adjust or fix? I've been reading about the tranny needing to be shimmed and oil or grease added...should I do that first? Another thing I read was a chassis brace is a must...what options do I have?

The stock electronics won't be in it for long so I shouldn't have to worry about that. I'm getting the Tekin RS w/ their Redline 17.5 motor? Is there a servo upgrade?

Any other must haves...let me know

I would highly recommend that you take the diff apart and make sure that you install another pair of diff shims behind the cross pin. I just took the ones off the outside between the outdrive and case and put them inside. Then I used 120k OFNA diff oil on the gears. Hope this helps

I will look into doing that when it gets here. Do you have the part number for the shims I would need? When I have the thing sitting in front of me I'm sure all of this stuff will make more sense.

What size 2s lipos is everyone running?

are you planning on racing...or just driving for fun?

Its easy you have 4, 1.5mm screws to take then you have 4 input gears and 2 moons gears. Then you can see the cross pins and shims in the case.

Part numbers you will need.

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...Rebuild/Detail

Good luck and let me know I can help you with more questions u have.;)

its also for a precaution since when u land the truck off a jump you will here a bit of a grinding noise. That is the gears starting to strip. What we found is that a single shim behind the cross pin will start to deform, separating the gear mesh, hense stripping out the gears.

So I would recommend this if your gonna run anything faster then a 13.5 setup.

Racing it at a local track in the stock class. I think the stock class stipulates a 17.5 BL motor and that is it. I will check again.


Thank you! This information will come in very handy.

Anytime. I got like a 10,000 hours of testing on this truck so I know the ins and outs of it. :lol:

Also on my truck I removed the 2 very small o-rings on the outdrives. I found that once they tare then they will bind up that side of the diff.

the Tekin RS esc with the v200 software is probably the best for racing. a metal geared servo will be a nice upgrade too. and get a lipo with a 35c or 40c rating.

That's what I'm going with. I got a baseline setup from Randy.

What servo would you recommend that's a direct swap? I need to get the SC10 so I can measure the battery compartment. I order all of my batteries through HobbyKing so I can get Turnigy, Rhino or Zippy...I just need to know the right size.