Doesn't the kit come with a full spacer kit for the shocks? The rtr doesn't. Using the radio system for a month was worth the extra 20 dollars, and the motor and esc are still holding up well

I had the inside of the tires bead pull out once, but that is it. Don't forget to buy new locknuts every few races so you dot ruin the pin carriers inside the wheel

when I first saw my bead locks sitting under the truck on the start straight i thought it looked like some goth rim, because of the black and the shiny spots

nah, no more bead locks for me

JC for me

I like they way the beadlocks look on the truck...I think its just to much weight, Relux rims for me with goosebumps on them seams to work best for my style of driving

Yeah I have had great luck with the goosebumps. And they last longer for me than the BowTies

drive shafts coming out
 

my new SC10 seems to be having a problem with the dogbones coming out when up on a stand and while testing the motor..makes a awful noise and the rear wheels start jumping u-p an down...I installed the spacers in the tranny so I know thats not it. an the truck is brand new..anyone else experiencing this problem??

did you install the limiters in the rear shocks?

The rtr comes with two black limiters on the shaft inside the shock. But the kit direcions don't talk about doing that

My kit instruction show 2 spacer in the rear shock and 5 in the front.

The goosebumps seem to be the best tire on our indoor track, proline m3 works well but loose traction at the end of 5min run

Has anyone tried racer's edge 1º rear toe blocks? What is stock?

Dont know the rules on your indoor track on mine i have taken goossbumbs and made them ghost pins almost slicks and they are very good. Moose the hubs are just like ones we run on are t4 lights setup. You should have your t4 and sc10 close to the same setup if u have any questions ill be there sunday.

ok, are you running them?

running the 1 degree ..no, Im using the 2 degree losi hubs

Try putting a couple of red shock o rings in the transmission side, and a couple of red o rings in the other side. It will help keep the dogbones centered and will keep them from poping out.

A trick we used to do on the old 10T and Gold pans was to take the spring out of a click type, bic pen, and place that in the drive axle side then put the dog bone in place. It kept tension on the dog bone and also helped prevent them from poping out.

I changed my bones to CVD axles, and though it was a pretty penny to do so, it was well worth the investment.

Better than those O-rings. I use nitro fuel tubing. You can make shock limiters, spacers, cushions for outdrive/dogbone, and so much more...

Fuel tubing is one of the most universal things to have in your toolbox...

;)