I was redoing my shocks today . I used shock bladders from a mini jammin crt.5 shocks. They are lot easier to bleed and no more air. They feel as smooth as my mugen mbx6 buggy shocks. Part #37080 for the bladders.

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...bd5eb133f1.jpg

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...6b1552716b.jpg

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...e92cd8f526.jpg

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...2435485f2a.jpg

maybe i dont fully understand these rc shocks... are we trying to get all the air out of a shock body so they air does not mix with the fluid? you say you dont need to bleed your shocks when using those bladders, so i am assuming you still have a gap of air between the bladder and the cap?

Need to THank Team Associated for a great corr truck and their kit donations to the CORR CROSS in Louisiana.

I tq'd and took the win in open Corr, then also dominated the dash for car race. taking home 165$. Then to top off the day I won the SC8 kit the donated!!!

there has to be air in the body to compensate for the volume of the shock shaft as it enters the shock body. The question is do you separate the air from the oil with a diaphragm or let it mix with the oil? I hate emulsion shock oil, it just doesn't make sense to me.

I did the vcs caps on mine. When you have the shock shaft fully extended and fill the body so the you have purge some oil when you put the diaphragm in it is easy to get the rebound right, for me.

I haven't tried the new caps with the bleed screws but that would seem the best way to get the the oil levels the same without a diaphragm.

I'm looking for a sway bar to help the rear of my SC10 stay flatter in sweeping corners. A guy at my local track runs one but I haven't asked him where he got it. :lol:

Whats the part number I need? I don't know if the B4 bar kit is for the T4 and SC10 too.

Had a look through the documents on the RC10.com site and it appears that #AS9635 (TEAM ASSOCIATED B4 REAR ANTI ROLL BAR - 3 BARS) is for the B4, T4 and SC10 like I hoped.

:sneaky:

problem was needed 2 o rings in the drive cup from the transmission(solved problem thanks

triled putting losi hubs (xxxtmf2)must be some mods to make these work?

OMG i striped again the gears of the diff, and now im really upset with team associated cause those last one were the new gears with right washers shims. They only last me like 30 minutes with a turnigy 9t motor that is not quite fast. Very BAS ASSOCIATED, VERY BAD!!!! Now i need to wait almost two weeks to race my truck again, so im leaving gears diff and want to install ball diff cause i owned a ft t4 and with bfastrc diffs it was bullet proof and really smooth.
So what do i need to install the ball diff? already own the diff, so i will only need the bearings of the diff and the diff case?


Also i agree with you guys that stock tires are full of crap, i made two laps with stock tires and it was undrivebeable, after that installed goose bumps and the truck handled sweet. If bow ties are better than goose bumps that will be sick.

I run a sway bar on my rear. The ae sway kit is the same for b4 t4 and SC10. I use the gold bar

You needed to get the losi hinge pin #losa6088... then run a 1/8th size drill bit through the arm so it will fit. It will use the same size stock bearing & you will lose the front to back hub adjustment,so in case you didnt know. Been running mine now for like that for 6 months. the truck(to me) feels pretty planted unless I get stupid with the throttle...running 10.5. Everything you need to know is on page 76 I think

O ... I forgot to mention to get the bearing crush tube...if you dont you will bind your bearing causing it not to spin freely when you tighten down your rim ...if you cant or dont wanna get that use 2 axle shims with your stock crush tube

I have had zero diff ussues,

ZERO

Same with me. One of the quietest diffs I have ever heard too.

*

so im a bad lucky guy cause the two diferentials stripped in a very short time, the diff feel very quiet and smooth at the beggining but after a few laps on the truck it began really noisy, i dont know what to do give it a try again or kick out the gear diff. The first diff i filled with silicone oil that comes in the kit, and the second one i filled with associated black grease.
Which silicone oil shocks are you running? and which springs? my track is very flat with just a couple of jumps, it is a 1/8 tt truck and i need lot of top end speed