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Originally Posted by F N CUDA
(Post 6230642)
I like this guy!:nod:
This is my first AE in 22 years! RC10 is what got me racin tho. Losi Jrx2 came out and never looked back, have or had almost all of the offroad race kits ever since. Don't know about gettin a Strike, might just wait til they trick out the XXXT CR Short Course truck.:sneaky: i started with the same truck or JRT?? it was a while ago. Bought it used and then my first new kit truck was the LXT when that came out. Then xx and xxt and then the CR conversion for both, a GTX and then the XX4 and then stopped racing. lol This new AE is almost like starting over again. in a sense. But i did make it a requirement that i at least still run the losi threaded shocks. :D But if losi made a Short Course XXXT conversion.....o man...you better believe you will see my SC10 in the classifieds section. :spidey: Just got back after a night of practice and the SC10 is DIALED! Starting to have a little more respect for these damn associateds now. lol is there a way to get rid of the slop thats in the front wheels? |
I can't believe how sloppy my front end is too, the trucks only been ran 2 nights. I'm going to put the inline axles on to get rid of the slop.
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Originally Posted by trdsupra88
(Post 6226674)
Would 3 degrees be too much for these trucks in the rear? 1.5 enough?
Originally Posted by OG RC 10T
(Post 6226778)
1 to 1.5 should be plenty, front and rear. 3 is way to much, IMO, as the tires are narrow.
Originally Posted by Krio
(Post 6227119)
The SC10 comes with 3 degrees total already (1.5 per side). Most people have upped that to 4 or 5 degrees by using uprights with built in toe or chedda bobs hinge pin mount.
Originally Posted by trdsupra88
(Post 6227439)
I found 1.5 and 3 uprights per side ...Ill try both and post what I think of each...
Originally Posted by gashuffer
(Post 6227476)
4 to 5 degree toe in is overkill:weird: Please explain to me why you think this is necessary? Stock toe is 0.
Originally Posted by OG RC 10T
(Post 6229024)
Per side is what I ment.:)
Originally Posted by Krio
(Post 6229201)
No, stock rear toe is 3 degrees just like the T4 and B4. Again, 3 degrees total...1.5 per side and this comes entirely from the front hinge pin mount that sits between the chassis and the battery foam.
4 or 5 per side is def overkill, but I have yet to hear of anyone running that much. Different toes get thrown around in here and most of the time people don't mention if its per side or total. WOW :eek: This entire conversation I thought we were talking about camber. :lol: |
Originally Posted by markt311
(Post 6230861)
I can't believe how sloppy my front end is too, the trucks only been ran 2 nights. I'm going to put the inline axles on to get rid of the slop.
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Originally Posted by markt311
(Post 6230861)
I can't believe how sloppy my front end is too, the trucks only been ran 2 nights. I'm going to put the inline axles on to get rid of the slop.
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For the slop I put shims between the e-clip and the knuckle...that will tighten alot up, then on the shaft before you put the wheel on...
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Originally Posted by BuggyKing
(Post 6230378)
From the factory it is generally around 2 degrees of toe-in in the rear total. Not per side.
Originally Posted by OG RC 10T
(Post 6231123)
WOW :eek: This entire conversation I thought we were talking about camber. :lol:
Then yes, -1 to -2 degrees of camber is what most people run. I have used almost -3 degrees on a DESTROYED track to help prevent the rear from catching edges and spinning/rolling. |
The whole front of mine is loose as well. I guess it doesn't bother me enough to fix it. Maybe I should take a closer look at it...
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Originally Posted by Pimpin
(Post 6230669)
:nod:
i. But i did make it a requirement that i at least still run the losi threaded shocks. :D But if losi made a Short Course XXXT conversion.....o man...you better believe you will see my SC10 in the classifieds section. :spidey: ? No leakin and threaded adjustability, just happened to have em hangin around. I've been sayin all along, the more Losi stuff that gets on my truck the better it gets.:lol: Losi shocks, 1 degree rear hubs, rear bearings and oh yeh, Losi stickers :sneaky: |
Though I am sure some where there is an "offical" shim, I bought a tiny hardware kit that included small washers, that are the same size as the ones that would work when shimming or taking the slack out of areas such as where the hinge pins are.
On my other trucks I have shimmed, with the wahsers, front arms, spindles, and almost anywhere there was excessive play between two parts that were hinge pinned together, and then became loose over time. If you do decide to tighten up the front end, just becareful because its easy to shim it to tight. |
My shocks don't leak, just a tiny bit of seepage.:)
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...ILDSC10019.jpg |
Originally Posted by Crawler
(Post 6232626)
My shocks don't leak, just a tiny bit of seepage.:)
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...ILDSC10019.jpg |
Originally Posted by markt311
(Post 6232861)
How well do the VCS shock caps work on there? I had the shop order some and then the bleeder caps came out.
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Originally Posted by Crawler
(Post 6232881)
So far so good, I'm using GS Racing bladders w/ the VCS caps and my shocks are extremly smooth.
How's the truck doin Crawler, mine's been a blast. Didn't want to get into the tire buyin wars but had to step it up since guys I didn't have to worry too much about came knockin on the door after sportin new treads. Now I picked some up and it's all good again.:sneaky: |
Originally Posted by F N CUDA
(Post 6233066)
I hear with enough attention they can be as smooth as Losi shocks.:nod::lol:
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