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-   Electric Off-Road (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road-4/)
-   -   SC10 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/286773-sc10-thread.html)

will g 08-19-2009 12:24 PM

what do you have to do to put the gt2 rear arms on just change arms and hub carriers or is there more ?? i already did the gt2 front set up with rpm stuff and so far looks good havnt run it yet. i change the front bulkhead and holder to alum and now im breaking front arms alot easier will it stop if i go back to plastic for bulkhead thnx Will G

gashuffer 08-19-2009 12:29 PM

4 to 5 degree toe in is overkill:weird: Please explain to me why you think this is necessary? Stock toe is 0.

gashuffer 08-19-2009 12:33 PM


Originally Posted by will g (Post 6227457)
what do you have to do to put the gt2 rear arms on just change arms and hub carriers or is there more ?? i already did the gt2 front set up with rpm stuff and so far looks good havnt run it yet. i change the front bulkhead and holder to alum and now im breaking front arms alot easier will it stop if i go back to plastic for bulkhead thnx Will G

Yes the plastic gives where as the aluminum destroys everything attached to it. The only aluminum parts I use is the front hinge pin plate and Racers Edge rear hub.With the GT2 rears you need the GT2 hingepins and you also need to relocate the shock mounting position on the arms as well as mounting the top of the shock inboard (on the inside) of the shock tower.

balistic 08-19-2009 03:59 PM


Originally Posted by gashuffer (Post 6227497)
Yes the plastic gives where as the aluminum destroys everything attached to it. The only aluminum parts I use is the front hinge pin plate and Racers Edge rear hub.With the GT2 rears you need the GT2 hingepins and you also need to relocate the shock mounting position on the arms as well as mounting the top of the shock inboard (on the inside) of the shock tower.


Don't forget the GT2 hubs.

I would bet the GT2 arms would be fine with the Aluminum, they are much tougher than the T-4 / SC10 arms.

When I put them on I was worried about the new location of the lower shock mount but in months I have not had a failure.

lidebt2 08-19-2009 04:48 PM

To install a ASC7678 GT Diff Assembly in my SC10 what other parts do I need? I have an sc10 Tranny case but it has to much side to side play.

Since I've asked twice, I guess no one knows.

Thanks anyway.

Pimpin 08-19-2009 04:51 PM

pretty sure you just need the T4 cases?

im not exactly sure. Im a Losi guy and this is my first AE car EVER!

RMDesigns 08-19-2009 04:59 PM

You need the T4 ball diff, T4 diff case, and the two outdrive bearings.

R40Victim 08-19-2009 05:08 PM

Fresh from the paint booth:

moved to SC10 pics thread

BuggyKing 08-19-2009 06:31 PM

aluminum parts r fine as long as u dont hit things, like pipes walls etc.

OG RC 10T 08-19-2009 06:39 PM


Originally Posted by Krio (Post 6227119)
The SC10 comes with 3 degrees total already (1.5 per side). Most people have upped that to 4 or 5 degrees by using uprights with built in toe or chedda bobs hinge pin mount.

Per side is what I ment.:)

Krio 08-19-2009 07:14 PM


Originally Posted by gashuffer (Post 6227476)
4 to 5 degree toe in is overkill:weird: Please explain to me why you think this is necessary? Stock toe is 0.

No, stock rear toe is 3 degrees just like the T4 and B4. Again, 3 degrees total...1.5 per side and this comes entirely from the front hinge pin mount that sits between the chassis and the battery foam.


Originally Posted by OG RC 10T (Post 6229024)
Per side is what I ment.:)

4 or 5 per side is def overkill, but I have yet to hear of anyone running that much. Different toes get thrown around in here and most of the time people don't mention if its per side or total.

BuggyKing 08-19-2009 11:46 PM

You run that much toe- in and it wont turn into a corner. It will be stable on-power. If anything run toe-out which will give u more turn-in but will make it a bit unstable with on-power steering. If anything run like 1 degree of toe-in. Or if u want to run toe-out a maximum of 1 degree is recommended.

From the factory it is generally around 2 degrees of toe-in in the rear total. Not per side.

markt311 08-20-2009 12:51 AM


Originally Posted by markt311 (Post 6226056)
There are no sun or planetary gears in an SC10 diff, it is a bevel gear diff. There are bevel and spider gears. The traxxas diff is a planetary setup, completly different.



I was wrong :cry: I just looked through the manual and it calls them sun and planetary gears. Oh well, not the first time for being wrong, not the last either:lol:

Pimpin 08-20-2009 01:05 AM

i think you just had them backwards.... ;)

F N CUDA 08-20-2009 01:29 AM


Originally Posted by Pimpin (Post 6228467)
Im a Losi guy and this is my first AE car EVER!

I like this guy!:nod:

This is my first AE in 22 years! RC10 is what got me racin tho.

Losi Jrx2 came out and never looked back, have or had almost all of the offroad race kits ever since.

Don't know about gettin a Strike, might just wait til they trick out the XXXT CR Short Course truck.:sneaky:


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