I'm sure it handles well. To bad it kills the scale appearance of truck and the spirit of the rules.

Yeah, it does kill the scale apperance of the truck, but I bought this truck to run in our club's "prolite" class(basically any 1/10th corr style truck with anything you can through in it). It's become the most anticipated class to watch out at our track. In our first points series race I believe there were 18 or 19 entries in the class, along with about 15-16 entries in the spec class(just stock, out of the box slashes and probably now RTR SC10's). I run trucks in both classes along with an SC8(these CORR trucks are what got me into the racing thing!) and I enjoy running all of them. I am consistently placing in the top 3 in all classes and am undefeated in the spec class. Unfortunately though, I've lost a few due to breakage issues:(. What I'm getting at is It's not hurting the spirit of the rules if there are two seperate classes, both of which are very fun!:)

what parts did you use to get the RPM rear amrs to work and will I need any bearings or spacers. and where did you get those hubs.

yea i agree. isn't the point of the truck to have those wheels??? plus CORR trucks are usually a little loose in the rear. if youre gonna throw some 1/10th scale truck wheels on it you might as well just get a T4.

Yeah pretty much takes the whole scale realism out

i got a question ( keep in mind im new to electric ) what should a motor and esc either temp at or should you be about to touch it with out being burned. i know you guys would know alot more than me thnx in advance

whose throwing 1/10th scale wheels on theirs? I'm throwing 1/8th scale buggy wheels and tires on there and they stay tucked inside the fenderwells just fine:eek: still looks pretty realistic to me(so what if they don't have holes in them to make them look like a standard wheel), and if you've got enough power you can still always throw the back end around if you want to. So........if I was gonna throw 1/10th scale wheels on there, why wouldn't I just get a T4? Oh yeah, it's b/c I'm throwing 1/8th scale wheels on there and I still want it to look somewhat true to scale and be able to handle itself around the track.:nod:

To each their own, I think 1/8 buggy wheels and tires look like crap on the SC trucks and defeat the entire purpose behind the class.

There's no doubt that the stock wheels have a better appearance, but the limited tire selection makes them only useful for stock applications. If you're running a "hot" motor and esc setup, then you've got to switch to something else or you're just gonna get more and more frustrated with every lap. I do like the scale look that these trucks have, that's why I bought them, however, in a modified class that's pretty much open(like what I'm running in), what's the big deal? Isn't the point of racing to prepare your car/truck in the best possible way to give you the upper hand during the race? I have no problems with letting any of my opponents do anything to their trucks that they like in the modified class, but in the stock/spec class just keep it simple. In fact, most of us that run at the top at our track share alot of our setup tips and tricks just to keep it fun. All of the fun gets taken out of it if one guy wins every race. I'd say there's about 5 of us out at the local track that could take the podium in any given race, and if we're all running near or identical setups then it makes it just that much more fun. At least then you know you won b/c you were the better driver. I went and tried my hub adapters out today and then went and reported what I thought about them to the three other guys that are running SC10's at our track so far. We've all been having a lot of the same problems so we're all kinda looking out for each other. As long as everyone has the same opportunities and knowledge going into the race, I feel much better about the win when it comes!

If your track allows it, cool. I just don't like it.

But I didn't buy your truck and I don't have a say in the 1/8 buggy tires being used.

Race on.

The hinge pin kit that it(the GT2) says to use with the front arms has the pins that you'll need for the rear arms. I can't remember the part # off hand, but it comes with 4 smaller pins, two of which you'll use for the front arms, and 2 longer pins that you'll use for the rear arms. Then, if you're gonna do the 1.5 GT2 hub carriers you'll need to use two spacers for them to fit inside the arms(positioning up to you). Also, when I did it I ran into a problem with the dogbones popping out, so, what I did to fix that was I placed two small spacers inside of the outdrive cups coming out of the differential to help keep the dogbones from sliding up in them and out of the axle stubs in the rear carriers. You should be good to go then, if I didn't forget anything. Oh, and the hubs were posted on the previous page. I got them off of neweramodels.com

Sounds good :) So are we agreeing to disagree? I totally get your point, that's why I run in the spec class, but I do like to try and get every little bit out of the truck that I can, which is why I also run in our modified/prolite class.

Yup agreeing to disagree.

If I were to run a mod SC class, I might consider running a set, but it would be a last resort.

Dude, last resort......come on, you'd do anything possible to get the upper hand on your competition, am I right? okay, okay, I'll stop now:lol:

This is how I see it. The reason this class is so popular is do to the scale appearance. If I was worried about all out performance, I could run a multitude of different classes.

Plus I'm the type who will continue to tinker w/ something to make it work just because others say it can't be done.:lol: