Hey Jarosz,
shouldn't you be kickin at OCRC hasslin Losi drivers?:lol:
See you tomorrow eh?:sneaky:

With the GT2 hubs you will need the arms as well. I tryed getting them to fit the stock arms but there are to tight and need some modifying to get to fit properly. I just run the 1 deg Losi arms with good success.

Hahaha what losi drivers?

I got my SC10 so its on now!

Yeah illz...I just bought traxxas stock tires and they mount up on the stock KMC wheels...

Yep, just get GT2 arms and a hingepin kit...which you really should have anyways because the GT2 front arms are awesome...and the bigger outer bearing.

You don't have to drill anything, they bolt in. I moved my shocks to the front of the tower and poof...done

Yeh Joey,
Hubs, arms, pins...
Or Losi hubs and 2 hinge pins.
We don't all have tired old GT2s layin around for yardsale parts:lol::lol::lol:
Get yer butt down here and hang out dude!

Chris J., don't crash it without a Cuda brace, if you need it I'll have one for ya:lol::lol:
It is on, I'm bulletproof so don't get any ideas.:sneaky:

I can help you find the LOSI parts too.:eek:

The GT2 stuff doesn't break...spending $20-25 bucks once is a good investment in my book. I finally cracked my first GT2 front arm on my J82 at Rev and I still finished the round. Those things are WAY strong. It's even easier on the SC10, because the c-hubs are already the good ones.

I'd like to get down there more...but it's a LONG way from home for me. Honestly, Fez was one of the biggest reasons I would make the trip...LOL. For the most part, Pegasus works for me. More chilled out, cleaner racing (not as "hacky"...more room to get out of the way) and...half the distance.

this truck is amazing it may be alittle weak but performs great at my local track.

Hey Folks, I have been bashing around on my home track with my SC10 and have blown out a couple of back wheels due to the nut getting loose. I admit I am running a 5700 Mamba system and its hard on it & I try to check the wheels often but forget. So I was thinking I need to go 12mm hex to handle the power but how? I also run a TC4 touring car which uses 12mm plastic hexes(#31032) that happen to fit the rear shaft/pin setup on the SC10 perfectly. I just don't have any Slash or Proline wheels handy to test the fit on the hex & axle though, I will have to order some ASAP from Tower but I was wondering if anyone else has a Slash & TC4 to try it out & let us know if it works OK or not. If it works it is a cheap way to do it as the hexes are only $3 a set & of course a set of wheels too. I am not a big fan of the pin drive rear wheel & with brushless power they just don't cut it anymore. Thanks. :)

for me, it was a learning process. last few cars i had were RTRs.

but after doing another kit (last one was the original kyosho lazer), i vowed never to do another kit.

but i kinda got caught up in the hype. lol...

now i wish AE would release an ARTR of the SC8!

you can run the slash hex's on the sc10. I did it but it also widens the rear track width and could cause some clearance issues. I also just did the JB weld trick with all of my sets of tires and they all appear much stronger now. However, I just got a set of the 17mm adapters in today, and this is definitely the way to go. The added weight of the buggy wheels and tires helps make the truck drive completely differently, in a good way! Now, I've only driven it out in my driveway since doing so, but I can definitely tell in difference in the way it handles. It is so much more stable now that I think I might actually give it another try out at our local track. I'm actually excited about getting this thing back out there now!:)

ok im gonna try the gt2 front and rear arms question with the rear arm/hubs i take it gt2 rear arms fit fine and the inner hingpin is the same now the outer hing pins i need from the gt2 right? and what about the rear hub bearings? is the part no. 7935 the right part no. for the bearings? and how many do i need? also changing over to gt2 rear arms/1.5 deg. hubs gonna change the rear track width? i kinda wanna get some mip cvd's also. maybey someone on this thread could put a sticky on here with all the part no.'s to convert the rear to a gt2 rear hub/a arms? HELP?

Throw up a few pics....

GT2 front and rear arms on SC10
 

for those of you who have switched to the GT2 arms are there any binding issues with the rear CVD's from the T4? i was looking at the specs for the arms and i noticed they are shorter the the T4 arms

Front T4 SSPECS: Length: 3-7/8" (98.425mm)
Rear T4 SPECS: Length:3-7/8"(98.425mm)

Front GT2 SPECS: Length: 3.8" (97mm)
Rear GT2 SPECS: Length: 3.75" (95mm)

any input would be appreciated

Thanks

I believe the carriers add the length back to the wheelbase that why you need the shorter arms. So when all said and done it's the same overall length.