I am not so sure to be honest with you. There is another adjustment that I set I believe High as a lower setting makes it more agressive? I can't recall what it is but the values were like in the 100s - 400s.

Best way to tell, try the 205 software on the ESC after setting everything on 323 to extremely mild / off or as close as possible and see how temps and such are.

On a really tight track like indoors, just couldn't use the timing stuff on a 550, and the Pro4 from what I have heard doesn't like timing, etc at all.

Hello everyone, I runned my 1/8 buggy this weekend and my Silver Arrow v2 was too hot that it died..!!!! I have a durango with 60T spur gear, 17T pinion and LRP 2500kv motor on 4s lipo.
What I'm doing wrong..?

Thanks!

using the 3.31 diff ratio that towerhobbies says the durango uses and your various settings, getting a top estimated speed of about 39 mph which is in the range I would expect from here:

http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html

Did you have anything set on the ESC like boost, etc?

How did the motor come off temp wise?

How did the battery come off temp wise?

Where were you topping out down the longest straight?

How was airflow through your body (ie- body holes drilled, etc)?

Nothing like boost used,
Motor temp was 73ºC,
Batteries were good, no temp issues,
Longest straight was 20-25mts long, and the body have a few drilled holes for vent...

how high was the temp on the speedo?

Where on the longest straight were you topping out at?

If you are topping out early on the straight and find you are at full throttle a lot of the time to get around the track, go with a bigger pinion. If you find you are NOT topping out down the longest straight, I would go down in pinion size. This is info I was given when starting out, and so far as worked quite well to find the right gearing selection.

Thank you very much man, I'll do that!
Don't know the real temp for the ESC but it was really hot!!

Regards

Manuel

I just put 323 software on had to upgrade my programming box and esc. I am using a hobbywing lcd programming box and seems to work fine. I noticed new turbo and boost options if I turn everything off or zero will the esc blink for blinky mode or do I have to load 508 software to get it to blink? I picked up the GT 2.0 pro in the america online store. If I like gonna pick up an LPF aswell....

I just want my Reventon. Anybody have a idea what's going on? I'm about ready to cancel my order and buy an Orion

at the price it is being sold for (at least last time I checked), I would just buy another SP GT2.0 Pro. Heck if I could get the GT2.0 Pro to work on 4S I would buy another as the size is very nice.

With my SA2, I am running a 1900kv, speedo is pretty high in estate, and timing. Geared 48/18 on 4s. I'm looking to go higher.

Raul...I want to know, does sensorless motor matters in off road..? Like 1/8th or the 4x4 SCT, something big....specificly 4 poles 1800/2200 range...?

If you don't mind me saying, I believe it matters that the motor has sensors in 1/8 due to if you have a spin out. That is the main area I saw an issue was that if you get spun out, there is that momentary hesitation you get, the cog, at that point.

That, and racers come to expect sensored motors now.

I thought the same...I would not even bother to use sensorless motor on ON ROAD, I thought off road is different. But I think they are the same afterall. thanks.

No problem. To be honest its better in 1/8 offroad than 1/10, and using some of the clutch style systems like Tekno it works almost without an issue from what I understand, but, the cog can still happen, and usually, its at the worst time.

Looking forward to seeing those new 1/8 scale sized motors, and really hope we get one or two in the 1800 to 2200Kv range. (I am biased towards a 2100Kv-ish motor for my Tekno stuff on 4S)

Is there anywhere I can buy the LCD Programmer in the US right now? I just ordered the GT2.0 Pro and would like to run it on my 2wd mod buggy.