Viper RC -
#9151
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
Ok, so our current indoor clay layout has a jump with a short run-up that I cannot clear. This is in Stock (blinky) SC class. There are others that can clear it everytime. I run the VTX10-BE with a Trinity D3.5 motor in my SC10. There are several guys that can clear it but I talked with 2 of them in detail, to try out their gearing and motor timing. Both of the guys actually run Orion R10 Pros but one runs the Fantom version of the D3.5, and the other one runs the D3.5. So the main difference is the ESC. Oddly they are both at opposite ends, One guy runs zero motor timing and a gearing of 75/29 and the other runs full 40* motor timing and gearing of 81/20. They couldn't help me on ESC settings. The guy running the Fantom came over and set my ball diff like his and checked over my basic setup and it was nearly identical to his short of the tires, so I switched to his tires with no improvement. I could not find a combination that worked, the fastest lap times that I was getting were with zero endbell timing and 75/28 gearing. The other difference was that they both run 90C Orion 2s lipos and I run the Nanotech 60c-120c lipos. During practice after racing, I tried combinations of endbell timing and gearing to all extremes with no luck. Even with zero timing and 87/19 I could not make the jump.
I feel that I am maybe missing a setting in the VTX10-BE that is limiting the performance. Here are the settings that I can remember:
Firmware A32
Brake 92% / EXP-2
Drag Brake = 7%
Throttle PWM 9600hz
Throttle Punch 90%
Throttle Curve EXP -3
Deadband Middle
Motor Power = Disabled
MISC
Forward = 100%
Running my current settings, I can get through the infield and down the main straight evenly, but the jump kills me. Any help would be appreciated. I am also looking to replace the motor before the end of 2014/Q1 (officially removed from ROAR).
I feel that I am maybe missing a setting in the VTX10-BE that is limiting the performance. Here are the settings that I can remember:
Firmware A32
Brake 92% / EXP-2
Drag Brake = 7%
Throttle PWM 9600hz
Throttle Punch 90%
Throttle Curve EXP -3
Deadband Middle
Motor Power = Disabled
MISC
Forward = 100%
Running my current settings, I can get through the infield and down the main straight evenly, but the jump kills me. Any help would be appreciated. I am also looking to replace the motor before the end of 2014/Q1 (officially removed from ROAR).
Then your settings should look like this:
Throttle PWM 5000hz
Throttle Punch 100%
Throttle Curve Linear
Having your throttle curve neg will make your power come on low and then ramp up harder as you pull the trigger.
Gearing wise I would think you will be closer to that 29 than the 20. I don't know exactly, but I would throw a 28 on and try it. Check your temps after a few min. With the D3.5 motor, set the timing at 0 or 10 deg ( They have 30 deg built in so 0 = 30). Too much timing loses bottom end. This is true for all motors (17.5). The sweet spot is usually between 30-45 deg
#9152
Hello Guys,
I just had to replace the bearings in my VX4R.45 4 pole 550 sensorless motor.
Just thought I'd list this info to help anyone going thru the same issues I was noticing.
If your motor has a squeal after you let off the throttle, you may need some bearings. Here are the bearing numbers for the replacements. These are from the Boca Bearing Company, Just google it...
Here are the bearing numbers...
SMR115-ZZ#7 size= 11mm x 5mm x 4mm thk. (drive end bearing)
SR2-ZZ#7 size= .375 x .125 x .156 thk
It takes a .050 allen wrench to remove the (3) screws. Once removed, the cap slides straight out. Be careful not to lose the washer and spring that is on the drive end of the armature.
These have the metal shields like the oem bearings.
Hope This helps
Later
I just had to replace the bearings in my VX4R.45 4 pole 550 sensorless motor.
Just thought I'd list this info to help anyone going thru the same issues I was noticing.
If your motor has a squeal after you let off the throttle, you may need some bearings. Here are the bearing numbers for the replacements. These are from the Boca Bearing Company, Just google it...
Here are the bearing numbers...
SMR115-ZZ#7 size= 11mm x 5mm x 4mm thk. (drive end bearing)
SR2-ZZ#7 size= .375 x .125 x .156 thk
It takes a .050 allen wrench to remove the (3) screws. Once removed, the cap slides straight out. Be careful not to lose the washer and spring that is on the drive end of the armature.
These have the metal shields like the oem bearings.
Hope This helps
Later
Last edited by Graveyard; 10-14-2013 at 05:56 PM. Reason: more iinfo
#9153
#9154
When I did something like this at least with my Tekin 540 4 pole 4000Kv motor on the SC10 4x4 I had at one time, I found that it dropped temps, I had plenty of punch, but now had the top end I was looking for. I only used like 5 degrees of timing at the higher RPM range as well.
the 550 2 poles from what I have seen for setups that the ESC I was using at the time had listed for them showed much more timing usage than what I was doing.
Maybe that could help?
#9155
yeah, maybe of the locals running 2 pole 550's drop a couple teeth and booth their motors. The unboosted 2 pole 550 scte and heavier trucks suffer. But the boosting guys seem to do well clearing the larger jumps. But they still need to carry speed because the bottom end snap is not the same.
#9156
What are your guys setting for the VTX8 ESC on 4s pack and tekin 2050 Motor. In a Tekno EB48
???
VTX8 ESC
-
Brake
-------
Brake strength 80%
Brake PWM freq ??000Hz
Brake curve linear
----
Smart Brake System
Dynamic Brake ??
Drag brake 10%
Throttle
----
THROTTLE PWM freq ???00Hz
Throttle punch %%
Throttle curve linear
Deadband middle
Motor Power
Acceleration Boost
Top Speed Timing
Misc Control
Run Mode
Motor Direction
Motor Type
SBEC Voltage
Forward Power
Reverse Power
Auto Power Off
protection
Battery Cut Off
Motor Temperature Cut
ESC Temperature Cut
on Middle size track and low traction.
Thank you
???
VTX8 ESC
-
Brake
-------
Brake strength 80%
Brake PWM freq ??000Hz
Brake curve linear
----
Smart Brake System
Dynamic Brake ??
Drag brake 10%
Throttle
----
THROTTLE PWM freq ???00Hz
Throttle punch %%
Throttle curve linear
Deadband middle
Motor Power
Acceleration Boost
Top Speed Timing
Misc Control
Run Mode
Motor Direction
Motor Type
SBEC Voltage
Forward Power
Reverse Power
Auto Power Off
protection
Battery Cut Off
Motor Temperature Cut
ESC Temperature Cut
on Middle size track and low traction.
Thank you
#9157
Motorman-- probably want to turn the brake up slightly from 80 - its a personal feel, think mine was like 90.
Brake Freq - 5000hz
Dynamic Brake - Disable (use this more in on road)
Throttle Freq - 12000hz
Race Blinky mode -- no boost
Motor Direction - Normal
Motor Type - 4 pole
SBEC Voltage - 6.0v
Forward Power - 100
Reverse Power - na
Auto Power Off - off
Battery Cut Off - 12.8v
Motor Temperature Cut - 230
ESC Temperature Cut - 220
This is what I used to start, should put you in the ball park.
Brake Freq - 5000hz
Dynamic Brake - Disable (use this more in on road)
Throttle Freq - 12000hz
Race Blinky mode -- no boost
Motor Direction - Normal
Motor Type - 4 pole
SBEC Voltage - 6.0v
Forward Power - 100
Reverse Power - na
Auto Power Off - off
Battery Cut Off - 12.8v
Motor Temperature Cut - 230
ESC Temperature Cut - 220
This is what I used to start, should put you in the ball park.
#9158
Motorman-- probably want to turn the brake up slightly from 80 - its a personal feel, think mine was like 90.
Brake Freq - 5000hz
Dynamic Brake - Disable (use this more in on road)
Throttle Freq - 12000hz
Race Blinky mode -- no boost
Motor Direction - Normal
Motor Type - 4 pole
SBEC Voltage - 6.0v
Forward Power - 100
Reverse Power - na
Auto Power Off - off
Battery Cut Off - 12.8v
Motor Temperature Cut - 230
ESC Temperature Cut - 220
This is what I used to start, should put you in the ball park.
Brake Freq - 5000hz
Dynamic Brake - Disable (use this more in on road)
Throttle Freq - 12000hz
Race Blinky mode -- no boost
Motor Direction - Normal
Motor Type - 4 pole
SBEC Voltage - 6.0v
Forward Power - 100
Reverse Power - na
Auto Power Off - off
Battery Cut Off - 12.8v
Motor Temperature Cut - 230
ESC Temperature Cut - 220
This is what I used to start, should put you in the ball park.
Thank you sir I will redo my setup
ETA on the motors for 1.8?
#9160
#9162
VF8 motors are coming along - manufacturing is interesting, you make 2-3 you can do things one way. Try and make a 1000 and its different. So we wanted to verify some things were done correctly in mass production and that took longer than we hoped. But the result is motors with the best quality we can give. So they are fast and reliable.
#9164
Sorry - don't know. We have seen some people (using our stuff and others) effected by this new High Speed setting. Feature software updates will be set up to handle this with no issues
#9165
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,595
From: Covington, La.



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