Wildcat, what is "active" braking??

dynamic, active, whatever you prefer, lol. Lower the rpm level until it says disabled.

Sure is nice being able to program my esc without having to bring a laptop. Cough cough Wildcat

lol. I saw a very big named driver with his cell phone out trying to figure out the blinking lights on his flow. When that didnt go well, he whipped out the manual. I think it took him 20 minutes to get his esc setup for mod, lol. I was giggling.

Haha. No blinking light counting for me. I wouldnt run anything other than viper in my 1/10 scale buggies. I used to bring a netbook to tune my other (insert brand x) esc until sand jacked the buttons up. Just waiting for a sensored 540-550 for pole motor for my tekno.

Viper, any idea when you will have a 4pole sensored motor for 4x4 sct?

That was a serious question...... not poking fun.

I've not looked into my programming very deeply yet, so, I wanted to be sure to get things "right" instead of screwing up something which is my normal MO.

The "active" braking, I think he is referring to is our Smart Brake program which acts as an programable drag brake - but setting power and rpm you want the system to brake to. Generally not used for off-road racing. But we do program a little in at default, so you do have to move the RPM setting to Disabled to "turn it off".

just chris - we see a lot of drivers set the brakes at 100 Brake Strength and 2500 Brake Freq. Then turn back Throttle EPA to control lock up. Make sure when you programmed your radio to the esc you set your end points at 100 for full throttle and full brake. If you at them higher, it will make the throttle super smooth, but the throw to the brake will be too long.

symmetricon - answer is same as 1/8 motors, they seem to be moving on same development pattern:
I should have an update next week, when I have info I am allowed to release, I will

out at our local track sunday and my boy was running his buggy and he cased one of the jumps and it shut of for a few seconds and the started back up again...never had that happen like that before thought it was a battery conection but its not that anyon have this happen to them before??

i had that happen once with my Copperhead ESC. Except it didnt start back up on its own. I had to unplug the battery and plug it back in before it would work again.

I have had that happen. It happens very quickly and it takes you by surprise. I do have a backup in case it doesn't turn back on and I have to send it back.

I have never had it happen and it should not happen. Maybe a loose connection with the battery or receiver.

i've had something like that happen. It was a dodgy sensor wire - wire moves, electrically breaks then reconnects, ESC reboots. And if you keep pushing the throttle it takes longer to reboot as it tries to find centre.

I've also had something like that happen on a different esc - tracked it down to the bridge cable between the saddles. The birdcage was squashed and the connector was bouncing.

My sensor wire was a little loose at PT and did that one night!!! Take a small screwdriver and push it in the motor easily till it is very tight. Haven't had that problem since with my viper systems!!! The VTX8's have taken a beating from some of the races I have been in!

thanks for all the ideas ill try them out... we've had the vipers for a few months now and we LOVE them this is the first prob weve had and im not 100% sure its even the systems prob lol

if you want to, take a small amount of grease or thin oil, and put it on the sensor cable contacts, or on the motor's contacts. this helps keep the connection, and prevent any corrosion or rust in the connector.