Would it make sense to try the 12.3mm rotor for 2wd buggy in a 13.5T motor assuming the 12.5 is stock?

What effect does changing the rotor have on the kV rating of the motor?

From what I recall talking with Novak going from a smaller rotor to a larger one, it dropped the Kv. Now, that is what they said and the difference was quite significant (12.5 I believe to 13mm or 14mm rotor I think).

The change you are going to see may be a slight increase in Kv?

what you will feel is that the motor should have less bottom end, so smoother on take off for the vehicle. If you don't need the punch or if the track is loose could be a good way to go.


Question on the VTX8. Do people put any heat shrink tubing down on the posts for the wires? Finishing up some cleaning on my vehicles to do reassembly and install, curious on this since the case is metal.

Still very impressed with how the ESC feels. Just feels MEATY

ahh then you'll be fine. See most touring is 13.5 or 17.5 (as Nick said). You would have to enter a Modified class with a 9.5. Most mod cars that I saw were running in the 4.5-6.5 range. With that said, Mod isn't nearly as popular as the other classes.

Does anyone have any suggestions on settings for a VTX8 to work with a Pro4 4600 in a 4x4 SCT?

I'll send you a PM with the settings I use for the Tekno SCT410.

I run the VTX-R / 7.5t in my SC10.2, mine is the newest verison and it has a big cap on it, where the previous verison, I believe did not.

Do you have any for a Pro4 550 sized motor?

hdmm, I have the VTX10R-BE which has an even bigger Cap stock but it's my understanding that the Pro6 is still in addition to this.

Gonna have a lot of capacitors on my speed control.

Correct. You will in essence have two.

Are there any write-ups to detail how this actually affects the system in a positive way? As an enginerd it's nice to read about the why sometimes.

there is an article in the latest RC Car Action discussing capacitors.

I'm a racer, not an engineer

But my personal perspective, while testing this product with the VTX8, I had more punch, better run time (batteries consistently took less mAh to charge back up), everything ran cooler.

Cain - some people do put shrink around the bottom of the wire and poles, its good extra protection if you choose to do it.

For those asking about 2s 4 pole set ups. I start with Profile 3, lower Punch to 60, adjust brakes as you like them and start testing from there. Some will lower the EPA for the throttle if they feel it too much power.

The idea behind the Pro9 and Pro6 caps are to help give more punch especially with short run up jumps. It's another tuning option we provide.

With the rotors, the smaller the size, the more RPM you should pick up, loose a little torque. Ironically, depending on how you want calculate KV, you can actually increase KV, in measurement. Making a huge change like Cain mentioned to a 14mm rotor would also increase KV, but your increasing the amps value of the equation.

Did my first street runs with the new vtx8. WOW!! what a difference from my old esc. The power is amazing in a SC with 4 pole 540. My old esc was defiantly holding it back. 85% punch and I will have to dial it back to like at least 70 to be able to control it. It was squirming all over the street smoking all 4 as soon as you hit it. SUCKs Raining here could not get to the track to run today.

I just setup a new receiver and after start up the v-port blinks green, with a tone on my Copperhead-R speed control. I haven't figured out what I do to stop it but it is a combination of throttle/brake. After that it looks like it recycles/restarts and is ready to go. This happens every time I start it up.

Edit: Just fixed it with a simple radio calibration.